Bridget Foy’s

Though I prefer to buy fresh ingredients and enjoy chatting with the farmers and vendors, I had not visited the Headhouse Square farmers’ market in a number of years.

At the same time, I wanted to watch tennis stars Serena Williams and Rafael Nadal at the Olympics. I came upon an easy solution. Shop first and have a bite to eat at a nearby restaurant that has televisions. Bridget Foy’s immediately came to mind.

John and Bernadette Foy opened their restaurant in 1978, naming it after their daughter.

Located at 200 South Street, Bridget Foy’s has two televisions in the bar. Both were tuned to the Olympics.

The restaurant has a tin ceiling, several dining rooms and outdoor seating. There was a steady stream of patrons during the hour-and-a-half we were there.

The bartender, who has worked there for 17 years, told me her Bloody Mary ($8) is really spicy. She gave me a small sip, and I immediately gulped down some water. She made me one from scratch, and it was perfect.

“Feel free to add more salt, pepper or horseradish,” she said.

The condiments were on a tray next to me. Edward ordered a screwdriver, and we watched Williams and Nadal prove their immense talent.

I have eaten at Bridget Foy’s for more than 20 years. It has always been on the cutting edge of Philadelphia cuisine. I clearly recall a game dinner with appropriate wines that was among the finest meals I have ever had.

Executive Chef Daniel James has put together a marvelous seasonal menu. There are starters, soups, salads, sandwiches, and a selection of brunch dishes.

Gazpacho ($7) was the soup du jour. Every chef has his or her version of this classic chilled Spanish soup. Tomatoes, cucumbers, and onions form the base. Bell peppers are usually included. This version was pureed to a velvet consistency but retained a certain richness that I liked. It was topped with a crisp crouton. The soup was served in a large wide glass.

Creating an unusual salad draws from inspiration. James has a pure winner with the Green Salad ($10). He used all green ingredients, which varied on shades of green. The base was large leaves of butter lettuce, one of my favorites this time of year. The salad also included sugar snap peas, small pieces of slightly crisp asparagus, and pea shoots. There was a marvelous contrast of flavors and textures in this dish. A buttermilk-based dressing, laced with fresh lemon juice, was truly inspirational.

For the past few years, I have been ordering burgers all over town. My favorites are made at Devil’s Den, 1148 S. 11th St; Hawthornes, 738 S. 11th St.; and Taproom on 19th, 2400 S. 19th St. I can now add Bridget Foy’s burger ($13.50) to the list.

I prefer my burger to be cooked rare and to have it on a sesame seed bun. The ratio of beef to bread is crucial. I do not like over-sized buns. I received a rare burger, perfectly seared on the outside. It was topped with lettuce and tomato. I also liked the tasty mayonnaise-based sauce. Good old-fashioned cheddar cheese melted on the beef. For two more bucks, I added crisp bacon. A pile of piping hot shoestring French fries was quickly gobbled. There was not one speck of grease. Patrons have a choice of either fries or a salad with all sandwiches. Each sandwich comes with an old-fashioned kosher pickle spear.

Lemon ricotta pancakes ($12) proved James instinctively knows how to put ingredients together for a fine dish. Ricotta cheese is rather mild in flavor. Thus, he added lemon to the homemade batter. Three large pancakes were topped with fresh blueberry compote. Lemon and blueberry is a classic flavor combination. The pancakes were dusted with a little confectioners sugar and real maple syrup. I also prefer thin pancakes to the thick version. These were just right.

Service was excellent. The staff paced our meal perfectly. We never felt rushed.

Bridget Foy’s has a number of craft beers on tap, as well as bottles, many of which are local. The international wine list features very reasonably priced options. There are Happy Hour specials as well.

For 38 years, Bridget Foy’s has attracted locals, tourists, and families. During our visit, a mother, father, and their three little girls arrived. I know they were in for a fine experience.

Three-and-a-half tips of the toque to Bridget Foy’s. ■

Bridget Foy’s

200 South St.

215–922–1813

bridgetfoys.com

Photo by Tina Garceau