37542054
Two images come to mind when I think of tweed. Gorgeous expensive wool and cashmere jackets made by the world renowned Turnbull & Asser in London that are worn by Prince Charles and his clan along with movie stars and company moguls.
History students may recall the infamous William M. “Boss” Tweed of Tammany Hall who stole millions and died in jail. “Boss” Tweed figures prominently in Martin Scorsese’s film “Gangs of New York.”
I don’t know why the owners of Tweed christened this new restaurant with this name. The interior is high-tech modern done up in shades of eggplant and olive oil. A flat-screen TV hangs over the bar where a few patrons were enjoying drinks.
I don’t know why the owners of Tweed christened it with this name. The interior is high-tech modern done up in shades of eggplant and olive oil. A flat-screen TV hangs over the bar where a few patrons were enjoying drinks.
The beautiful interior of the building on South 12th Street, which once housed Odeon, Bistro Bix and Le Bon Temps, was gutted. I wonder where the magnificent staircase is now.
My friend Christopher, who is a chef, accompanied me to dinner. I value his opinion because he is a professional.
We settled into a banquette in the bar. No one told us about the happy hour specials including half-price appetizers.
Our waiter nervously described the specials in a monotone voice without asking us if we wanted a drink. There was no eye contact whatsoever and he kept pointing to items on my menu with his pen.
Christopher told him we wanted to order drinks and discuss the menu.
Tweed does not stock Bombay Sapphire gin. I settled for a Beefeater martini ($9) which was fine.
The menu is a mix of modern American bistro fare. An assistant waiter brought us a focaccia-like bread and one tiny triangle of butter with a butter knife.
The bread was OK but something more rustic would have been better.
Our waiter described the seafood salsa fredo ($9) as a ceviche. The word ceviche should have been on the menu. The bits of cool seafood were splendidly enhanced by sweet red onion and fragrant cilantro.
Roasted beet salads are everywhere. Executive chef David Cunningham, who worked in New York and the now-shuttered Bookbinder’s, roasted beets to perfection and sliced these beauties thick. Tangy goat cheese, mint and frisee were included. The light vinaigrette was prepared with orange juice, which was a welcome change from lemon juice or vinegar.
The sliceberg ($10) was a twist on the wedge, a steak house staple. A chunk of iceberg lettuce with crumbled blue cheese and crisp bits of bacon was topped with a homemade Russian dressing that was so delicious. As I ate my way to the lettuce heart, it was a bit on the tired side, pale yellow turning to white. Its should have been trimmed better.
The menu lists daily specials. Pot roast ($18) was the plat du jour. I love a good pot roast and always use a chuck roast. I settled for the pork chop ($19), which consisted of two thick ovals of boneless pork a bit overcooked. My dinner came with Swiss chard. The amount was so tiny, I needed a microscope to see it. Still it was delicious. Pickled ramps, which are in season, and bit of bacon were included.
Christopher opted for herbed risotto ($17) which was toothsome yet creamy. The mix of sautéed wild mushrooms and garlic made this one of the finest risottos Christopher and I have ever tasted. It also may be ordered as an appetizer ($8).
I sipped a glass of Pinot Noir ($10), which married well with the pork.
Cunningham purchases all his ingredients from local farms. The names are listed at the bottom of the menu.
Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Tweed. SPR
Tweed
114 S. 12th St.
215-923-3300
www.tweedrestaurant.com
37542059
37542044
