South Philly Review

Nineteen is a magic number for the café at the Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue, which offers a brunch to brag about. PHOTO BY MEREDITH EDLOW

The Bellevue-Stratford Hotel opened in 1904. Built in the French Renaissance style, she is now the Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue. This magnificent structure - a true pride of the city - is, to many, the "Grand Lady of Broad Street."

I have fond memories of dining in the now-closed Hunt Room. I've attended family weddings and receptions in the Rose Garden. Until recently, dinner was served in a grand French manner at Founders Restaurant, while lunch and tea could be taken in the Barrymore Room. The hotel hired Marguerite Rodgers, one the city's finest interior designers, to totally redecorate the dining spaces. The result has been christened XIX Nineteen because the dining room and café are on the 19th floor.

Rodgers chose chocolate brown, pale robin's egg blue and lots of beige for the walls and furnishings. I got a kick out of the giant strands of rope pearls that majestically hung down over the raw bar.

Edward, my mom and I decided on a Sunday brunch, a most civilized way to spend an afternoon. We were shown to a banquette in the circular café, which was once the Barrymore Room. Tables are covered in crisp white linen, French flatware and California wine country-style water tumblers.

The menu has a fixed price of $40 per person. The buffet has the aforementioned raw bar, as well as hot and cold dishes. Diners also get a choice of entrée from the menu. The hotel offers a flute of Vin Mousseux from the Loire Valley for $5 - a delicious bargain. It was made in the methode Champenoise style.

The selection of oysters were uncommonly good. We feasted on a variety of these slightly salty beauties from Rappahannock County, Va., near the Chesapeake Bay and smaller mollusks from Rhode Island and Prince Edward Island, Canada. Cool, perfectly cooked shrimp were included along with sweet littleneck clams from outside of Boston. Homemade mignonette sauce (which I prefer with oysters), lemon wedges and a downright delicious homemade spicy dill caper mayonnaise were the condiments. I enjoyed at least 18 oysters and heaven knows how many shrimp to whet my appetite.

Mom particularly enjoyed the poached fresh green and white asparagus with lemon olive oil and a hint of imported balsamic vinegar. Fresh roasted beets were enhanced by bits of tangy imported goat cheese with frisse tossed in a light sherry vinaigrette. An assistant pastry chef told me all the baked goods, except the bagels, are made on the premises. The cheese croissant and chocolate croissant were each so light and tasty, they took me right back to Paris. The French baguette was well made - I enjoyed a small piece with house-cured olives topped with capers and a bit of chopped sweet red onion. I can never resist the Philadelphia tradition of sticky buns; those offered, studded with walnuts, were perfect.

Although Caesar salad was available, Edward and I agreed we'd rather indulge in the oysters. I had a small taste of the nicely done Thai beef salad, which was topped with chopped peanuts and spicy Thai basil. Garlic prawns with lo mein noodles were cool and comforting, lightly dressed with chili sauce and chopped scallions.

America's love of Asian fare has made an impact on Sunday brunch and a station dedicated to these delicious delicacies was situated near the old Library Bar. This spot also has been redecorated - the books are gone, but the lit fireplace was still intact.

We sampled freshly steamed shrimp shu mei, barbecue pork buns and chicken dumplings, all nestled in individual steamer baskets and tender duck moo shoo pancakes with hoisin glaze. The wrappers on the shu mei and dumplings were thin, and not a bit rubbery. From the sushi bar, I selected tuna and salmon rolls, along with salmon and yellowfin sushi. Wasabi, sliced ginger and chopsticks were available on the bar. Each dish was immaculately fresh.

The entrée menu is a mix of breakfast and luncheon dishes. Edward ordered the crabcake Benedict, which consisted of two poached eggs set on a nice-sized crabcake topped with hollandaise sauce laced with fresh chopped dill. According to Edward, the eggs could have been hotter. I thought it odd the dish did not come with roasted potatoes or anything else, especially since eggs and omelets are enhanced by a side.

Mom and I opted for fluffy scrambled eggs with a choice of bacon or sausage, roasted potatoes and a Belgian waffle. The eggs were not steaming hot, but they were warmer than the eggs Benedict. The roasted potatoes were enhanced by caramelized onions, but were on the cool side. I am particularly fond of applewood-smoked bacon and this sampling was crispy. Edward and I thought the pork sausage was on the dry side and could have been hotter. Unfortunately, the chef forgot our waffles. Our server apologized and brought them, but they were cold and tasted stale.

The dessert buffet, however, did not disappoint. Rich and creamy mocha pot du crème was served in demitasse cups topped with an Arabaca coffee bean. White chocolate mousse cups were enhanced by lemon and passion fruit. Strawberry, blackberry and sliced plums formed the basis for small homemade fruit tarts. A mixture of dense chocolate pudding and bananas found its way into ramekins topped with crushed hazelnuts. Petite crepes filled with a hint of honey and hazelnuts were delicious when enjoyed with a fresh strawberry smoothie or a mix of strawberry preserves topped with custard and whipped cream.

Service was not a bit harried, although our silverware should have been changed between courses. Both rooms were filled, yet the staff continued to replenish every item on the buffet tables.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to XIX Nineteen Café.

XIX Nineteen Café
Park Hyatt Philadelphia at the Bellevue
Broad and Walnut streets
215-790-1919
Credit cards accepted
Reservations a must