South Philly Review

I am addicted to old movies. I often sing along with the dynamic Judy Garland and Mickey Rooney as fresh-faced adolescents in their musicals, where they belted out “Let’s put on a show” numbers.

In culinary lingo, “Let’s put on a show” means “Let’s open a restaurant.” Today’s dining spots play the entertainment role, as dedicated foodies sample the newest places and a plethora of cuisines.

I wonder how many who try their hands at this difficult business actually have a clue what they’re getting into. It’s like taking a chance on the stock market — and no one wants the numbers to fall.

Tom Jamavan, Michael Poole and Van Chau knew what they were doing when they opened Trio in Fairmount in February, since they have experience in doing what it takes to succeed. The three met in 1994 while working at Siri’s Thai-French Cuisine in Cherry Hill.

They thought about opening a location in East Falls until Poole, who lives in Fairmount, happened upon a corner property. They took the chance and the result is a delightful neighborhood BYOB featuring fresh-tasting Thai fare with a strong nod to the French.

Chef Jamavan, a Bangkok native, planned an intriguing menu and a short list of specials. The bi-level space is sunny with yellow walls trimmed in eggplant and British racing green. There’s an outdoor deck, which is perfect for al fresco dining since patrons do not have to inhale exhaust fumes from the 48 bus. Tables are laid with crisp white linen, matching napkins and chopsticks (surprising, since people dine with knives and forks in Thailand).

Two servers took fine care of Edward, Mom and me. We brought along a chilled Pinot Grigio, which was placed in an ice bucket, and a Pinot Noir. Our waiter advised us of the specials, including the price of each. Three tips of the toque go straightaway for this practice.

Thai cuisine is a balance of sweet and spicy, which tantalizes the taste buds. Lime is the acid of choice and peanuts turn up in a number of recipes.

The soup of the day ($5) was a chilled, velvety purée of leek and potato, a refreshing and light choice on a hot evening.

American corn fritters took on an Asian twist in Jamavan’s version ($7), as the silver dollar-sized patties of small, sweet kernels mixed with minced shrimp were coated in batter and fried. They were set upon a homemade sweet relish of thinly sliced cucumber with an added sweet chili, a staple in Thai cuisine.

Crispy beggar’s purses ($7) consisted of four fat phyllo dough satchels filled with minced shrimp, crabmeat and Thai basil tied with a strand of chive. They were deep fried and crispy — a nice change from the steamed version. The crunch with each bite proved Jamavan was a master at frying.

Next up was salad kak ($7), which included tofu (not stated on the menu). Edward and I detest the solidified soy, but I know there are legions of vegetarians who exist on it. The salad was prepared with romaine, rings of peppery onion, fresh-tasting sliced cucumbers and tomatoes with slivers of hard-boiled eggs. It wasn’t stated the peanut dressing was hot (too hot, in my opinion), so the burst of spice made me reach for my water glass. Mom, on the other hand, liked it. Jamavan needs to work on presentation because the dish lacked eye appeal, especially since Thai food prides itself on looks, as well as taste.

Rib-eye steak ($19) was among the specials and Edward ordered it rare, and that’s how it arrived. It was actually a boneless rib-eye, also known as a Delmonico and, although not prime quality, it was tender and flavorful. Escalloped potatoes come with the steaks and I love this classic French side — in fact, I inhale it. We asked our server for some fresh vegetables, as well, and he happily obliged. String beans, broccoli and carrots arrived on a plate with the potatoes. They were a bit cool, but were whisked away and came back piping hot.

I ordered the filet mignon ($19), which was tender, rare and juicy. It was properly seared — a rarity these days. The addition of a spicy, pink peppercorn sauce reduced with Pinot Noir was a nostalgic reminder of dinners I enjoyed in French restaurants.

Mo’s basil chicken ($13) was a little disappointing, as, once again, eye appeal mattered. Served in a bowl, the sauce was soupy. The chicken had taste because of the fragrant Thai basil, and onions and red and green bell peppers were included in the stir-fry mix. I think a richly reduced wine sauce would fare better, but Mom liked it. She also received a big scoopful of heady jasmine rice and fresh vegetables.

During dinner, a number of patrons arrived. Many were regulars, toting wine as Chau greeted them at the door. As it is a family-friendly restaurant, people of all ages frequent the spot.

We sampled two desserts ($5): the macadamia nut pie and a sort of Asian tiramisu, a sweet, creamy square of layered cake with a hint of coconut. The former was like pecan pie, because the nuts were set upon a corn syrup mixture, and I thought it a bit bland. The cake fared better.

Service was excellent. Each dish was freshly prepared and we did not wait long between courses.

Trio is a fine neighborhood restaurant. With a little more attention, it could be a great one.