South Philly Review

One of the best things about Sunday is brunch. We enjoy bagels and nova at home, bacon and eggs at a local diner or splurging on a fine meal in an upscale restaurant.

Several hours after seeing Prince Charles and his wife Camilla (he looks old for 58, she looks better in person than in photographs) leave the Four Seasons Hotel, Edward, my mom and I dressed up and drove to Water Works.

It was great to see people milling around on a dreary day. Families were visiting the Art Museum and couples were walking their dogs along the Schuylkill River Park and Kelly Drive. As soon as we entered Water Works, we saw the brunch crowd was out in force.

Chef Chad Durkin, who specializes in pastry and once worked at Susanna Foo, is in charge. Ed Doherty is responsible for the day-to-day operations. His last post was managing The Capital Grille and he also is a fine chef.

The building is beautiful, with looming ceilings, polished wood floors and a waterfall in the main dining area. There are several small rooms -- each affording glorious views of the Schuylkill -- an inviting bar and a sweeping patio for al fresco dining (weather permitting).

We were shown to a circular booth in a space that seats 10. Tables were covered in crisp, white linens with pale-butter napkins. Our waiter brought us complimentary hot chocolate in espresso cups and a plate of miniature vanilla madeleines dusted with sugar.

The 17-item a la carte weekend brunch menu has something for everyone and I had a difficult time deciding what to order.

Edward and I enjoyed jumbo Bloody Marys ($7.50), which packed quite a punch. It was so spicy I asked the waiter for some tomato juice to calm it down. It was delicious, however.

I began with a bowl of roasted-potato soup ($8) and Edward ordered a side dish of grilled asparagus ($3). My soup, served in a high-sided, deep, oval bowl, was visually appealing and tasted divine. It was puréed, seasoned just right and topped with crispy julienned leeks. The consistency was perfect: not too thick or thin.

Edward received about six to eight slim -- but not pencil-thin -- asparagus dusted with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, coated with a bit of olive oil and beautifully grilled.

Mom did not want breakfast food either, so she ordered the Water Works burger ($10), which comes with Boursin cheese and bacon. She likes her's medium-rare and asked the waiter to omit the cheese and place the bacon on the side. There must have been about eight to 10 ounces of top-quality, tasty Angus beef used. It arrived as requested and cut in half -- just what Mom wanted. We all liked the brioche-type bun and lettuce, sliced tomato and sweet red onion that were piled on top. A hefty side of piping-hot, crisp shoestring fries came on the side.

A woman seated nearby ordered the crab salad ($12), which looked so good I ordered it, too. I received a deep, white bowl filled with ordinary mesclun leaves mixed with a plentiful amount of sweet, top-quality lump crabmeat and sliced asparagus. The vinaigrette was made with spicy Thai basil, olive oil and soy sauce and I did not find it to be as hot as my Bloody Mary. I liked the contrast of cool crabmeat with smoky, grilled asparagus. However, the addition of endive, hearts of romaine or cucumbers would have given it a much-needed crunch.

Edward went for steak and eggs ($21). He ordered the filet mignon rare and asked for the scrambled eggs to be served on a separate plate. The eggs and hash browns came first and Edward said they could have been hotter. Then the filet, which was at least 6 ounces, arrived medium-well. Within a few minutes, a new steak arrived rare.

La Colombe coffee ($2.25) and pretty, glass French-press teapots filled with Earl Grey ($4.25) accompanied by little teacakes were enjoyable finishes to the meal.

Obviously Doherty is running a finely orchestrated show. The hostess continually made her way through the dining rooms, bringing more madeleines and ensuring everyone was enjoying brunch. The wait staff watched the tables and timed the meals properly. The acoustics were first-rate and it was nice to enjoy a meal without the constant noise we experience in so many places.

Jackets are not required for men at Water Works, but Edward wore a turtleneck and a blazer. A large group of people dressed to the nines arrived during our brunch. They had just come from Arch Street Presbyterian Church, where they had attended services with Prince Charles and Camilla.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Water Works.