South Philly Review

I enjoy receiving feedback from readers who recommend new eateries and tell me about savoring meals at three-tips-of-the-toque restaurants.

Michael, who lives in Queen Village with Anne and their 7-year-old daughter Madeleine, wanted to surprise his wife with an unusual Hanukkah gift: A review dinner with my husband Edward, my mother Berthe and me.

We selected Ava, an Italian BYOB on Third Street between Lombard and South. Michael booked a table while Anne and I decided on the wine. Their friend Andrew joined us. What followed was an evening of delightful conversation and fine, authentically executed cucina from the kitchen of executive chef/owner Michael Campagna, who opened the restaurant three years ago with brother Anthony and named it for his daughter.

Since it was Restaurant Week, we each savored four courses of Campagna's brilliant creations for $30. The choices also appear on his regular menu, which changes nightly. I found each dish perfect, with every ingredient was there for a reason.

Knowing the chef has a young daughter, we asked if a simple platter of roast chicken with pasta and sauce could be prepared for Madeleine.

Champagne flutes and all-purpose wine glasses were set at each place and we toasted the new year and new friendships with the bubbly we brought. As we lifted our glasses, Italian opera played softly on the sound system and the lights were lowered, creating a lovely glow on the gold-colored walls and cream linens.

We emptied two large baskets of warm herb-topped focaccia, which we dipped into extra-virgin olive oil.

Baby arugula salad was paired with tender white beans, dressed in a lemon vinaigrette and topped with shavings of Parmigiano-Reggiano. Caesar salad was fashioned with crisp hearts of fresh romaine, homemade dressing redolent of anchovy and the best polenta croutons I've ever tasted. For the roasted beet salad, Campagna formed roasted red and orange beets into tiny dice, placed them on a small bed of mache, added a disk of warm goat cheese and dressed the masterpiece in a hazelnut vinaigrette. Each salad was large enough for two.

Next came the appetizer portions of pasta, which I liked since I am not fond of main-course pasta dinners. Campagna used chestnut flour to make tagliatelle, a fresh ribbon noodle that works well with any number of sauces. This one was a fine blend of sweet butternut squash, slightly salty pancetta and a hint of sage. A bit of cream was added to extra-virgin olive oil and butter for a richer flavor.

Whenever I see rabbit on a menu, I go for it. (It tastes just like chicken.) Pappardelle, a wide ribbon pasta, was perfect for the rabbit ragu that was simmered with tomatoes and herbs. All it needed was some Parmigiano-Reggiano, which our waiter grated right onto the dish.

Andrew ordered the casereccie with pesto and Campagna had a marvelous hand with the fragrant, fresh basil and the sauce was classic and deep green. We could actually taste the pine nuts and Parmigiano-Reggiano that were used.

Madeleine and my mom enjoyed simple, tasty dishes of fusilli pomodoro with basil. The tomatoes simmered down beautifully to a nice richness. Mom's chicken breast was wrapped in Proscuitto di Parma and was tender and juicy. It came with roasted, sliced Roma tomatoes and leeks.

Anne, Edward and Andrew ordered the striped bass, which was pan roasted (not a bit overcooked) and served with polenta, braised fennel, Roma tomatoes and a dollop of tapenade -- it was the Mediterranean on a plate. I prefer braised fennel to raw and the addition of tapenade and tomatoes was brilliant.

Pork saltimbocca was an inspiration -- a twist on the classic Roman veal dish. Cutlets were pounded thin, saut�ed and topped with Proscuitto di Parma and fresh mozzarella. The outstanding sauce was made with wild mushrooms and Madeira wine, which was a perfect culinary marriage.

Michael gave me a taste of his veal scaloppini and it, too, was glorious. It came with saut�ed spinach, caramelized onions, oven-roasted Roma tomatoes and a parsnip pur�e, which I have not seen on a menu since the 1990s.

From the dolci we selected chocolate crepes filled with a caramel cr�me anglaise, which were so outrageous I have to try to make them at home. Andrew gave me a taste of his chocolate hazelnut tort with fresh whipped cream. Edward and Mom ended with apple tarts.

I wish you, dear readers, could have joined us on this bitterly cold night. Dinner at Ava was one of the finest in recent memory. I salute Campagna and his staff for giving us the gifts of a perfect evening and new friends.

Three extraordinary tips of the toque to Ava.