South Philly Review

Fall is the time of year when many new restaurants open their doors. Las Bugambilias, Spanish for bougainvilleas, the brightly colored flowers that thrive in warm places, is the city's newest Mexican eatery. It opened a little more than a month ago on the South Street site of Primavera. My cousin Carl and I enjoyed a delightful dining experience on all levels. Las Bugambilias is the type of place I would visit several times a month. The atmosphere is warm and welcoming, service is first-rate and the prices are moderate.

The man orchestrating the kitchen is chef/owner Carlos Molina, who hails from Veracruz. His wife, Michelle Zimmerman, is the pastry chef. It was obvious everyone in the kitchen is capable of fresh dishes bursting with flavors. Never once did Carl or I reach for the salt and pepper.

We sat at a banquette in the window to watch the goings-on on South. The colors surrounding us inside were warm and sunny. The wooden-and ceramic-tile-inlaid tables were made in Mexico. Plates, little vases and salt-and-pepper shakers also were Mexican-made as were the pretty little dolls for sale. The artwork brought a Southwest vibe to the space -- you'll find Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera alongside a photograph of gorgeous Hollywood star Dolores Del Rio.

I sipped a martini ($12) while Carl enjoyed a glass of Malbec ($6) that was a delicious bargain. Warm, complimentary, crispy tortilla chips, along with a spicy dipping sauce and a more mild pico de gallo, kept us content as we looked over the menu.

It was a cold night so Carl and I knew steaming bowls of soup were a must. Traditional sopa de tortilla's ($5), a mix of Mexican peppers, tender shredded chicken, tortilla strips, Oaxaca cheese and creamy bits of avocado were simmered together. The soup was finished with a chili paste that gave it a slightly spicy kick. Sopa de Marisco ($6.50) is the Mexican version of French fish soup with the big bowl brimming with grouper, shrimp, jumbo lump crabmeat, tender carrots, peppers, celery and leeks. It was one of the finest soups I have savored in recent memory. The broth in both was homemade and arrived piping hot.

Carl had never tasted cactus leaves, a star in one of Mexico's most famous salads. Ensalada tradicional de nopales ($6) consisted of the chopped leaves, which have a taste and texture similar to asparagus, avocado, sweet onions, ripe tomatoes, serrano peppers, fresh Mexican cheese and heady coriander tossed in a perfect vinaigrette that enhanced each vegetable to perfection.

"The chef split the salad in the kitchen for you," our delightful and knowledgeable server said as she set the plates before us.

We munched warm tortilla chips with the salad -- our server brought another basket without asking.

Since my seafood soup was so satisfying, I wanted to try a meat dish for my entr�e. Cochinita pibil ($14) is Mexico's salute to pork. What I like about this meal is the pork is slow-cooked and shredded, marinated in achiote and served with a puree of black beans Molina piped from a pastry bag, as well as rice and marinated onions. I love shredded pork and this dish did not disappoint. It could have been hotter, so our server apologized and brought me another, which came out as steamy as our soups. The portion was so generous, I toted some home for lunch.

Carl went for the beef, specifically molcajete arrachera ($16), which consisted of tender skirt steak simmered in a rich molcajete sauce that imparted a beefy flavor. The dish, served in a hot molcajete, contained cactus leaves, chopped scallions, coriander and Oaxaca cheese. A molcajete is a vessel made from lava rock and it is primarily used to serve guacamole, but also for other dishes. It is a mainstay in the Mexican kitchen and kept Carl's dinner searing. The dish came with rice, beans and guacamole.

We sipped glasses of Malbec because Carl offered me a taste when we began eating and I knew it would marry well with my pork dish.

One of Carl's favorite desserts is flan. Zimmerman prepared a triumph for just $4. The custard was creamy, cool and sat in a pool of perfect and not-too-sweet homemade caramel. It was prepared with a hint of fresh vanilla Carl and I both liked. Another winner was tres leches trifle ($5.50), served in a pretty made-in-Mexico parfait glass that was topped with whipped cream and fresh strawberries.