South Philly Review

I enjoy shopping in Cherry Hill, N.J., visiting Moore Brothers for unique, vintage wines, purchasing flowers, fruits and vegetables at Springdale Farms, or just moseying around Crate & Barrel. Finding a new place to eat in South Jersey isn't so easy unless you keep your eyes open while comparing gasoline prices.

About six months ago, Blue₂O Seafood Grill opened on Route 70. Edward and I had been to this restaurant twice and found it OK as far as fresh ingredients were concerned, but the prices were steep.

The space is cavernous and since, it's a seafood restaurant, blue is a big color here. There's a bar in the front room with several flat-screen televisions and a winding dining room with oversized, comfortable booths.

Blue₂O is open for lunch, which was fine with us, since Edward and I were tired of South Jersey diner fare. We sat at the bar and chatted with the barkeep. Edward enjoyed a glass of St. Michelle Riesling from Germany ($9), while I wanted a draft beer. A pint of Hoegaarden ($5.75) was light and refreshing.

A piping-hot cup of New England clam chowder ($6) was rich with cream and chock-full of fresh, chopped clams and potatoes. Seafood bisque ($6) was a bit on the sweet side, but the fish was not a bit overcooked.

Although it's a seafooder, Blue₂O also serves steaks and sandwiches. I selected a burger ($9.50), which consisted of a hefty portion of fresh ground beef that arrived rare as ordered. It was topped with Irish cheddar and applewood bacon. The patty was on a brioche bun, but I did not mind since the latter was not sweet. The mound of piping-hot, seasoned fries were quickly devoured.

The dinner menu changes daily, but most classic dishes, such as the raw bar, soups, salads and seasonal fishes, are always on order.

Six Cape May salts ($11) were briny and immaculately fresh -- all they required was a squeeze of lemon or mignonette sauce.

The Caesar salad ($6) was a little on the dry side, but it was prepared in the classic manner with crisp romaine and Parmesan.

I always enjoy a wedge salad ($7.50) when dining in a steakhouse, but Blue₂O did a fine job and it was big enough to share. The iceberg lettuce was cool and crisp, topped with chopped bacon, tomatoes, crumbled blue cheese and a rich, homemade blue cheese dressing that was so well-made I knew it never saw the inside of a bottle. We nibbled on warm Parmesan bread with whipped butter.

Halibut is one of my favorites. It's thick and full of flavor. I like it simply grilled. Blue₂O's ($25) was caught off the coast of Nova Scotia, cooked over a hard-wood grill and topped with citrus butter. I thought the portion on the small side, but the accompanying fresh asparagus with hollandaise was a true highlight. The sauce was homemade and its texture, spot on. Roasted Yukon Gold potatoes were my starch of choice.

The grouper ($25.50) was prepared with an unusual twist: Pretzels were crushed and used as its coating. After being cooked, the fish was bathed in a light, whole-grain mustard sauce. Pretzels and mustard are a Philly tradition and I wasn't sure this dish would work. It did. Fresh asparagus accompanied the meal. Edward asked if he could substitute coleslaw for the mashed potatoes. The former was first-rate and had a slightly tangy flavor we enjoyed.

The wine list was pricey, even for Jersey. We found a Pinot Noir from Oregon for $32 that went well with our fish.

Desserts are classic. Key lime pie ($6) with fresh whipped cream and a hot fudge sundae ($6) with brandied cherries and chopped walnuts whisked me back to my childhood.

Service was first-rate. Blue₂O employs enough staff to keep the tables clear while patrons wait for their next courses.

Two tips of the toque to Blue₂O Seafood Grill.

Blue₂O Seafood Grill
1906 Route 70 West
Cherry Hill, N.J.
856-662-0297