South Philly Review

Share this Story:

Nearly three years ago, long-time resident Harry Arnold opened a cafe near our house in Logan Square. It was a boost for the neighborhood. We had a place to meet for coffee, a salad, a sandwich or something sweet.

About six months ago, Harry told me he planned to open an eatery in the Piazza at Schmidt's in Northern Liberties. Darling's Diner is now a few months old and, like his cafe, it's a boost for the NoLib neighborhood.

The diner has counter and outdoor seating, as well as spacious booths. I am not surprised the place is awash in orange and blue. (Makes you think of Howard Johnson's.)

Edward and I have been to Darling's on several occasions for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It's BYOB and there is no corkage fee.

If anyone ever gives an award for the best pancakes in town it should go to Darling's. You get three huge, light-as-a-feather flapjacks dusted with powdered sugar ($6.50). The batter must be homemade because it lacks that icky, malty flavor of a pre-packaged mix. The real maple syrup is warm, so don't worry your flapjacks turning cold.

A real French omelet is hard to find, made the "baveuse" style -- golden, puffy and creamy inside. At Darling's you build your own using any ingredients you wish. Omelets start at $4.95, with $1 to $1.50 for additional goodies. Crispy home fries with sauteed onions and rye toast from nearby Kaplan's bakery round out the perfect breakfast or brunch.

We also sampled the Shanghai salad ($9.95) which is big enough for two. It's created with Napa cabbage, carrots, cucumbers, sprouts, baby greens, Mandarin orange slices, roasted peanuts and crunchy noodles tossed in a sesame soy dressing. Each ingredient was immaculately fresh.

Club sandwiches are a favorite from my childhood. At Darling's, the California club ($12.50), was piled high on Metropolitan seven-grain toast. The turkey breast is roasted at the restaurant, and was enhanced by creamy avocado, sprouts, crisp Applewood-smoked bacon and tomato. Although cranberry mayo is used, I prefer straight Hellmann's here.

Edward is the Reuben maven of our family. He's downed them in delis all over town. Darling's version ($10.95) created with corned beef, which we both felt was too lean but still tasty. Harry slow cooks his own sauerkraut. Melted Swiss cheese is authentic here, but the Russian dressing is not. A real Reuben does not contain Russian dressing. Edward asked for his lunch order sans the dressing. Crispy french fries came with the sandwich.

Iceberg lettuce gets a bad rap from many foodies. I like it, especially on a hoagie, or tuna or egg salad sandwich. I also like it the way steakhouses serve it: A wedge of cold iceberg with bacon, rounds of sweet red onion and Russian or blue cheese dressing. Darling's ($8) tops the wedge with Russian and that's fine by me.

I must be the only person in the city who does not like a burger served on sweet brioche. Many places have hopped on the bandwagon with this one. Still, Darling's ($9.95) is seared on the outside, juicy inside. It comes with all the trimmings: lettuce, tomato, onions, pickles and fries.

Harry worked as a waiter at Le Bec-Fin for a number of years. He is most knowledgeable about French food and fine wine. He picked up his pastry skills from the great pastry chef Robert Bennett. Harry began to bake cheesecakes and they are sublime. I've also indulged in his cinnamon Walnut Street coffee cake ($4.50) and key lime pie ($5.95).

Harry has created a modern twist on the classic diner. You can order turkey or meatloaf, but also will find some international, well-done favorites such as hummus and pita, quesadillas, Greek salad and skirt steak.

Portions are large, so take this into account when ordering. A number of the dishes are large enough to share. Prices are moderate.

Harry recognized us on our visits, but his staff is so knowledgeable and professional, every patron received fine service with a smile.

Three tips of the toque to Darling's Diiner.

Darling's Diner
1033 N. Second St.
267-239-5775