South Philly Review

For a few years, a charming restaurant housed in a nearly 100-year-old building in University City has attracted loyal patrons who have savored the cuisines of three distinctive chefs.

Marigold Kitchen's first was Michael Solomonov, who has owned the award-winning Zahav for the past year-and-a-half. Erin O'Shea took over and brought a modern Southern twist to the menu. She now works with Solomonov, who plans to open a barbecue restaurant on South Street in a month or so.

Many consider an established restaurant new when another chef/owner plants their culinary roots in the kitchen. Chef Robert Halpern is as fine as Solomonov and O'Shea. He creates flavorful dishes with local, in-season products and has an instinct for knowing what his customers will enjoy. He is up-to-the-minute, but not at all trendy.

Marigold Kitchen is still BYOB. My sister Sandy, Edward and I settled in and I immediately got "big eyes." I wanted to try every dish available. (This is rare.) We sipped a white Rioja with our appetizers and a Malbac with our entrees.

Pan-broiled fresh sardines ($11) paired beautifully with an apple-citrus salad. Halpern whisked a vinaigrette redolent with saffron and nutmeg. I never thought of using nutmeg in a dressing, but the spice imparted an unusual flavor.

Pork belly is fast becoming a restaurant favorite. Slow-braised Berkshire pork belly ($12) was a triumph of tastes and textures. Juicy and tender, it married well with creamy grits, the sweetness of a glazed fig and the tartness of pickled carrots and fennel. These flavors worked in the balance of sweet and tart. I also liked the slightly spicy caramel froth Halpern used as a base.

Pan-fried sweetbreads ($14) were another winning starter -- perfectly seared and creamy inside. Saffron was used in this dish, as well. Bits of crisp cauliflower played against the creaminess of the sweetbreads and tart pearl onions. They were finished in a sherry jus.

Seared squab breast ($27) immediately took me to France. This tender baby fowl was seared and roasted, painted with a heavenly foie gras ragout laced with pureed raisins. The latter added a bit of sweetness and texture. Braised heady shiitakes and baby spinach were a tasty foil for the bird.

Beef is big in South America, particularly Argentina. Halpern's Painted Hills Farm ribeye ($28) was so authentic, it could be served in any South American restaurant. It was grilled rare and paired with feijoada beans and collard greens served in a chimichurri sauce that packed a tasty herb-infused punch. Chimichurri, made with olive oil, vinegar, finely minced parsley, oregano, onion, garlic, salt, cayenne and black pepper, is the ketchup of Argentina. Topping the tender meat with it was spot-on.

Halpern's crispy onion-crusted halibut ($24) was purely Mediterranean. He simmered a broth made with fresh, ripe tomatoes and finished it with a dollop of fragrant pistou, the French version of pesto. Baby artichokes were the right vegetable and worked beautifully with the fish.

I could not think of a more perfect way to end this perfect meal than diving into a plate of profiteroles ($8), which, along with a hot chocolate soufflé, is my hands-down favorite dessert. The cream puffs were filled with rich, homemade banana ice cream and drizzled with warm bittersweet chocolate sauce. I never heard of sweetening herbs until I tasted the candied cilantro in this dessert. Here the strong taste was tamed to a light sweetness.

Our server tended to the patrons with the help of an assistant. Both watched the tables, changed our silverware and filled our water glasses.

Halpern's menu is an inspiration. As I studied it, it was easy to discern his culinary philosophy: Use the finest ingredients, marry them perfectly with the right sauces and herbs and keep each dish simple. He succeeded on every level.

Three tips of the toque to Marigold Kitchen.

Marigold Kitchen
501 S. 45th St.
215-222-3699
www.marigoldkitchenbyob.com.