South Philly Review

Today is Edward's birthday. We have invited Cousin Carl and several close friends over for a feast featuring some of my husband's favorite foods.

We rarely go to a restaurant on his birthday because our wedding anniversary is Nov. 8. Edward would rather celebrate at home. We'll light the fireplace (Carl is an ace stoker) and enjoy drinks and nibbles before sitting down to dinner.

Edward is not a fussy eater. The only foods he detests are zucchini and yellow squash. He will select the entr�e and I will build dinner around it.

Two years ago, he requested a standing rib roast. I went to Whole Foods and spoke with Sebastian the butcher about this cut also known as prime rib of beef. Although I have made rib steaks, I had never roasted prime rib on the bone. He advised me to get a two-rib roast, which would serve eight people amply. When he told me the price, I thought several customers would have to pick me up off the floor. It came to $88.

This year Edward wants osso buco, one of his all-time favorites. I always follow Marcella Hazan's recipe for this famous dish from Milan. I buy the veal shanks from Sonny D'Angelo in the Italian Market because I know his veal is humanely raised in Lancaster County.

Osso buco is braised in wine. It is the only dish in Italy where risotto is served with the entree. In her book "The Classic Italian Cookbook," Hazan writes you can serve pasta as a first course and Peas and Proscuitto with the osso buco. I will do just that. We will offer a crisp Sauvignon Blanc and a choice of reds, including Chianti, Malbac and Pinot Noir.

Edward loves fettuccine with Gorgonzola sauce. Gnocchi can be used in place of the fettuccine. If anyone is still hungry after savoring the main course, I can always toss together a simple green salad before dessert.

I will order a rich vanilla cake from a bakery and serve it with coffee and snifters of Cognac.

Osso Buco Alla Milanese

Ingredients:
1/2 cup of olive oil
1 tablespoon of unsalted butter
1 shallot or small onion, finely diced
1 each of a small carrot and celery stalk, finely diced
2 fat cloves of garlic, minced
Flour, for dredging
8 veal shanks, wiped dry with paper towels
1 cup of dry white wine
1 15-ounce can of chicken stock
1 28-ounce can of San Marzano tomatoes, coarsely chopped, with their juice
1 sprig of fresh thyme
4 fresh basil leaves
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs of parsley
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Directions:

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

Heat the oil and butter in a large, heavy, ovenproof pot over medium. Add the shallot or onion, carrot and celery and saut� for about five minutes. Add the garlic and saut� a few minutes more, but do not burn. Remove all with a slotted spoon.

Place about a cup of the flour on a plate. Dredge each veal shank in the flour, shaking off the excess. Saut� in the pot until golden brown on both sides. Add a bit more oil and butter, if needed, to keep the shanks from sticking.

When the veal is browned, return the vegetables to the pot and add the remaining ingredients, stirring well. Bring to a boil. Cover and remove from the heat.

In the same pot, bake for at least two hours, checking every 20 minutes to make sure the liquid is thoroughly covering the meat. If low, add more white wine or stock. The shanks should be fork-tender when done. If not, cook another 30 minutes, keeping a check on the liquid level.

Serves eight.

Note from Phyllis: If you do not have a pot large enough to saut� the vegetables, use two and equally distribute the ingredients between them.