South Philly Review

Weekend brunch is as American as the banjo, baseball and jazz. Sunday is the day of choice for those of us who do not want to pull out pots, mixing bowls and skillets for something as simple as bacon and eggs or challah French toast. For the past few years, a number of Center City restaurants have been offering brunch on Saturdays. This is a wise idea.

Brunch venues reflect your state of mind and pocketbook. For special occasions, I enjoy the Fountain Restaurant at the Four Seasons Hotel and XIX (Nineteen) at the Park Hyatt at the Bellevue. For the past few years, I have not been able to get into Honey's Sit 'n Eat because of the long wait, but learned the secret to securing a table at Sabrina's, 910 Christian St. (You call ahead and a host puts your name on the list with an estimated time to dine.)

My friend Joan is a chef in San Francisco. She and her fiancé Rafael, who was born in France and is an MBA candidate at Wharton, called me and invited me to brunch at Day By Day. She kept raving about the place and I realized I have not been to this Center City institution in many years.

Day By Day is owned and operated by Robin Barg. She opened the restaurant 28 years ago. Her daughter Molly is an accomplished baker and joined her mother in assuring that the many loyal patrons were kept happy with new dishes and interesting twists on classic brunch and lunch fare.

I met my friends and we were fortunate to land the last table. Robin greeted me, but I doubt she knew I was going to review the restaurant.

Steaming mugs of rich, dark-roasted La Colombe coffee warmed us up immediately. The menu is one of the most unique in town. Prices are moderate and the service is professional and friendly.

Potato pancakes benedict ($11.50) received high marks all around. The chefs prepared crispy, lacy potato latkes until they were golden brown. Both latkes were topped with slices of smoked salmon, a perfectly poached egg and creamy, homemade hollandaise sauce. The reasoning behind removing the English muffin and Canadian bacon made sense.

I've been to events where mini-potato latkes have been topped with smoked salmon. The chefs at Day By Day respect the egg. It is one of the most difficult ingredients to work with. Turn your back for a moment and the result could be brown, rubbery eggs or poached ones where the yolk is too hard. Those in my benedict were the finest I've eaten in a restaurant.

The puffed apple pancake ($7.50) was a dish from my childhood. My Austrian-born grandmother would make a large crepe in a cast-iron skillet and top it with warm cinnamon apples. Joan was surprised when she saw her meal; it was thin and light. The in-season, local apples retained a slight crunch. If cooked too long, the result would have been applesauce.

Rafael chose scrambled eggs with spinach and feta ($8). A large mound of creamy, fluffy, golden eggs were flecked with bits of fresh spinach and melted, slightly tangy feta. Do you know how difficult it is to achieve the scrambled eggs I just described? To quote Gail Simmons of "Top Chef," "there is nothing worse than brown, rubbery scrambled eggs." The platter came with hot roasted potatoes and pumpernickel toast. You get a choice of bread, by the way. All of the brunches came with grapes and melon slices.

Barg brought us three mini-muffins to sample.

"Molly didn't bake them but they are good," she said.

The tart cranberry walnut reflected the season. Blueberries were featured in another and the last was classic corn. We agreed the muffins were not too sweet. I lathered the corn muffin with butter and enjoyed.

Barg began her catering career 30 years ago. She still caters weddings and events, but obviously has done everything right when it comes to running her restaurant. The chefs use top-quality ingredients and create dishes with eye appeal that are full of flavor. In today's economic times, restaurant patrons seek value for money. Day By Day does just that.

Three tips of the toque to Day By Day.

Day By Day

2101 Sansom St.

215-564-5540

www.daybydayinc.com