Chef Matthew Levin shifts from the style of fine dining to bistro, at the newly-opened Adsum.
In my review of Rouge several weeks ago, I wrote Matthew Levin is the chef of the moment. He developed the new menu at Rouge and was in charge of the kitchen while waiting for Adsum, his Queen-Village bistro to open.
I anticipated my visit to Adsum because Levin wowed me when he was executive chef at LaCroix at The Rittenhouse. From a chef of his high caliber, I expected only the best.
I invited my friend Harry, who was a server at Le Bec-Fin for a number of years, to join me. He was to mark a special birthday in a few days and I looked forward to a celebratory dinner.
What ensued was one sorry, forgetful meal highlighted by mostly bland food and amateur service.
Poor ventilation is not nice when dining in hot weather. We found the coolest table in the room and settled in. Harry and I noticed the black tabletops were dusty and showed scars of the former tenant’s glassware ring marks.
I sipped a Bombay Sapphire martini ($10), which was served in a small coupe. Our server placed it to the left of me not to the right. Since I am right-handed and it was filled to the top, it was difficult for me to pick it up without spilling it.
Harry and I knew we wanted to try the foie gras, octopus, salad, skate and sweetbreads. He asked our server for bread and it took about 10 minutes for it to arrive. We received four small slices of dry, toasted challah. Since the servers did not watch the tables, it took a little while for Harry to get her attention and ask for butter.
The foie gras ($15) was as small as half a premature baby’s foot. We evenly divided it between two share plates and found it OK, but just too small. The french fries fried in duck fat were tasty, but could have been crispier. They required salt.
Octopus ($12) is a staple in Mediterranean restaurants where it is usually served in a red wine vinegar sauce. Levin looked to the American South for his version. He bathed the mollusk in a slightly sweet barbecue sauce and added a wedge of lime on the side of the plate.
It cut the sweetness a bit, but I found the combination of tastes a little bit weird.
Harry asked for more bread. It came just after we divided the Bibb lettuce salad ($10). We thought this dish was the highlight of the evening even though it is rather common. The presentation was eye-appealing since Levin scattered black sesame seeds over the salad. It contained walnut pieces, thinly-sliced pears and bits of slightly tangy blue cheese.
I make skate at home. I always dust it in seasoned flour and sautè it in a white wine sage brown butter sauce. At Adsum ($17), it is merely sautèed and placed on the plate.
It also was cold. Our server apologized and brought out another which was piping hot. The texture was a little off, sort of mealy. We asked an assistant server for lemon and lime wedges. We doused the skate in salt, pepper and lemon juice. Bits of cool broccoli were included on the plate.
Regular readers of this column know I adore sweetbreads. I was curious to see what Levin’s KFC sweetbreads ($21) were to be. I looked at my plate and there was as best that can be described as three golf balls coated in crumbs.
They were dry as dust. It was the bland leading the bland.They were not piping hot. The risotto with peas was toothsome, but could have been hotter.
Harry noticed the service was amateur through more than half of the meal, but became more professional as the evening wore on. Bus help arrived so clearing the table was not a problem during the final quarter of dinner.
Desserts were banana bread pudding, donuts and crëme brulee, poor choices for a hot summer night. Ice cream or sorbet would have been perfect.
By the time we left, the room was so filled with horrendous noise no human could enjoy a glass of wine or a meal.
The sign outside says Adsum is a refined neighborhood restaurant. I guess it depends on the definition of what refined is.
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1. Anonymous said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 07:21AM
“maybe it took so long to get bread because they don't serve bread. or bread & butter.”
2. Anonymous said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 11:38AM
“I ate here last night and thought it was great-the food and the service! My favorite was the "whiskey tater tots." The fried chicken was out of this world. And I had a wonderful cocktail - "Logical Consequence"- gin, green tea, dill, fresh lime, honey and splash absinthe. The beer list is good, too. Doughnuts were not at all too heavy on a hot day - deelish! And the AC worked just fine and the tables were clean. I can't wait to go back to try more of the menu!”
3. Anonymous said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 11:46AM
“"The foie gras ($15) was as small as half a premature baby’s foot."
Oh Phyllis, I know *exactly* what you mean!”
4. Phyllis Stein-Novack said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 12:14PM
“Bistros, upscale and refined restaurants always serve bread and butter that is, hopefully, soft enough to spread without ripping into the staff of life.”
5. herman said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 12:16PM
“Oh Phyllis! You are a gem! Best review ever! Never retire! The pretender reviewing the pretentious! One day, when you have some free time, why not ask some of the qualified reviewers in town why it is considered standard to wait three (3) months before reviewing a restaurant. Then go to the food network website and look up poutine. I'm sure you will find it revelatory.”
6. sanberdoo said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 12:24PM
“My wife and I went for brunch last Sunday and found it to be really amazing. We went for dinner last night and I have to agree with the ventilation complaint, it felt like the AC couldn't keep up with e temp./crowd. We found dinner to be quite good, but it wasn't as creative and refined as the brunch we had. If he tightens up the dinner menu this could be one of our new faves.”
7. Phyllis Stein-Novack said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 01:53PM
“There is no standard for waiting 3 months to review a restaurant. Theater critics, music critics, dance critics and ballet critics are in the audience on opening night. I would not go to a restaurant on opening night. I do wait a bit but if a restaurant is open for business and accepting people's money I will be there. But not on opening night.”
8. Anonymous said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 02:10PM
“I completely agree with this review! No ventilation what so ever, and the service was just plain lousy. The bartender pretty much ignored me until my friend arrived and he recognized her from another restaurant. The chicharones I ordered wore like chewing on raw hide. I asked the bartender if this is how they were supposed to be. He then confirmed that something was wrong and took them back to the kitchen. Good call there, but then when he came he never said a word to me - he never asked if I wanted something new, or told me a new order was coming out - nothing! Seriously dude - if you can't be a good server, just be a human being - you completely ignored me! The pickled watermelon was also flawed - no pickle taste at all!
I say the place still needs a lot of work!”
9. Tim said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 03:17PM
“Yes....Phyllis. Let the hate flow through you...”
10. Annette said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 03:45PM
“Do you realize that plays, concerts and ballets are rehearsed prior to being reviewed, and generally do not run (with the exception of Broadway hits) for longer than a few months, if that, so they have to be reviewed when they open, restaurants on the other hand need some time with customers to figure out what works.
A reviewer should feel a moral obligation not to publicize such vehement judgment without giving a restaurant a fighting chance. Go back at least twice, everyone can have a bad day.
And no, not all, bistros, upscale and refined restaurants serve bread and butter, most do, but not all.
And while the Phylum of an Octopus is Mollusc, they are referred to in culinary circles as Cephalopods, and not all restaurants have the facilities to hold and serve ice creams and sorbets.”
11. Anonymous said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 04:17PM
“Yes, a premature baby's foot. I can't think of a better analogy to convey portion size. It's both something with which most people are familiar, and an appropriate image for a food review.
I think I'll have me a Sapphire martini now.”
12. Luke said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 05:10PM
“I have read many reviews by Ms. Stein-Novack, but this one deserves a comment. This review makes me question if the SP Review should get another food critic. First, I have eaten at Adsum and found the food to be excellent. Second, I find it hard to believe that this restaurant received a lower review that the IKEA cafeteria and the Chinese Buffet on Columbus Blvd. Third, I found the use of a “premature baby’s foot” to describe the portion size to be odd and disturbing. Lastly, I have never read a critic’s review that spent so much time negatively discussing where the drink was placed on the table. I would perhaps suggest a second reviewer to mix things up and reflect the younger crowd who also call South Philly home.”
13. Phyllis Stein-Novack said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 05:41PM
“Tim: Hate is a strong word. I hate war, poverty, famine, injustice on all levels, sexism, racism, anti-semitism, hunger, homelessness. I never agree with Republicans but I certainly do not hate them. Choose words wisely and well.”
14. Phyllis Stein-Novack said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 05:53PM
“Annette: Serious restaurants do "dry runs" before they open. Just like rehearsals for theater, music, ballet, etc. They do this for a few days before the restaurant opens to the public. I know because I have been invited to "dry runs" on a number of occasions and always turn them down. This is because I do not want anyone to know who I am. You will notice I am the only columnist in the paper without a photograph. Luke...age has nothing to do with reviewing restaurants. I go everywhere and find men and women of all ages enjoying a beer, which by the way, I savor on a warm evening, or barbecue, or French food or a good down to earth sandwich. A good meal is timeless and ageless. The experience is what it is. And I find it disconcerting that no one ever comments when I discover a restaurant that is so fine I want to shout it glories from the roof top and no one comments. As in Fond and Bibou, two fine representatives of South Philly restaurants.”
15. Victor said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 06:55PM
“Phyllis, you never agree with Republicans? Seriously?!?!?!?!?”
16. Phyllis Stein-Novack said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 06:59PM
“Edward & I just enjoyed a simple glorious dinner of roast chicken, stuffed with garlic and rosemary from my garden, a jumbo ripe luscious Pennsylvania tomato topped with basil from my garden and sweet Jersey corn. I am wondering why this review of Adsum - "why is this review different from all over reviews" - sort of reminds me of The Four Questions during the Passover seder. Why has this review garnered such debate? I have written a number of negative reviews in all my years with the paper. Why this one? Not sure. Luke...go to the library or book store and read the works of James Beard, Barbara Kafka, who is one of my mentors, M.F.K. Fisher, Julia Child, Ruth Reichl, former restaurant critic of the New York Times and editor of the now dead Gourmet Magazine, the late Craig Claiborne and Frank Bruni.
I am pleased this review has garnered such debate. We are a republic in a free country where all opinions are heard.”
17. Phyllis Stein-Novack said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 07:04PM
“Luke: I have never eaten in the IKEA cafeteria so I do not know where you got this impression that I rated it higher than Adsum.”
18. Phyllis Stein-Novack said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 07:28PM
“Victor: Are you pulling my leg?”
19. Victor said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 07:40PM
“No, Phyllis, no pulling of any appendages.”
20. Anonymous said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 07:47PM
“phyliss maybe you should put the bombay martinis down you drunk. maybe if you werent such a drunk youd be able to go out more often without being thrown out of restaurants at such an amazing clip. no one takes anything you write seriously, youre a laughing stock. maybe its time to bow out gracefully? oh wait that would be tough for a woman that gets so intoxicated that she falls from her bar stool regulary and makes obnoxious comments and yells through the dinning room. super profesional. you should be happy that this review has garnerd debate, that menas someones reading your work for a change.”
21. ted said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 08:11PM
“PS-N: You don't want anyone to know who you are? You include a story about the owner or chef recognizing and fawning over you in half your reviews. Either be a professional, anonymous reviewer or own your inflated sense of self-importance, but at least be consistent.”
22. Anonymous said... on Aug 5, 2010 at 11:01PM
“What a laugh! Call it what it is; if it's poorly done, say so! Maybe she hit the nail on the head, even after a couple rounds? BTW, where is all the pro staff, didn't bring anyone over from the LAX? Roots, baby. Roots.”
23. RR said... on Aug 6, 2010 at 02:43AM
“I have been in the company of Ms Stein-Novack on numerous occasions over the years. She is indeed a nearly fall-down drunk on occasion, and makes no serious attempt to hide or remain anonymous to any chef/owner who recognizes her, fawns over her or schmoozes her. In nearly 20 years of dining experiences, I have rarely seen her sober.”
24. Anonymous said... on Aug 6, 2010 at 09:44AM
“you were so pissed that "your drink was placed on your left, but i'm right handed). maybe you shouldn't be so damn lazy & reach across the table & pick it up. the bread you probably had 3 servings of goes with another dish. i had it with the marrow. it's called "toast" AND IT'S PREPPED FOR THAT DISH. NOT BEFORE DINNER FILLER. scattered black sesame seads? they are IN the dressing. premature baby's foot.....yup. it's about 3 ounces of foie gras. take a class, get some class & maybe get another job. assistant server??? yea that's called "another server who you happen to flag down because maybe you're impatient.”
25. Anonymous said... on Aug 6, 2010 at 10:02AM
“I think this review has garnered much debate because, like myself, people are starting to realize that Phyllis is kind of out of touch with the current restaurant world. It has nothing to do with Adsum. Also, I too believe it was a bit early to review them. No one else of note has yet to do so.”
26. Anonymous said... on Aug 6, 2010 at 10:13AM
“she sounds like someone who goes out to dinner & complains that she can do al these dishes at home much better. she should do just that.”
27. Daniel said... on Aug 6, 2010 at 10:18AM
“Also, "dry runs" are referred to as soft openings, and most of the time it's one or maybe two nights, and usually for friends and family to work out some kinks.”
28. phillylunchjamie said... on Aug 6, 2010 at 10:54AM
“I think it is ridiculous to think a reviewer should wait several months for a restaurant to "get into the swing of things". If a restaurant made the decision to be open to the public- be damn sure you are putting your best face forward. If you disagree with the writer's opinions, frequent the restaurant that you love so much rather than attacking the review.
Also, octupus in bbq sauce sounds completely unappealing.”
29. inflytur said... on Aug 6, 2010 at 11:10AM
“I reread the review a number of times and found it full of direct descriptions followed by opinions. It would be easy to read the descriptions and decide for yourself if you might agree with Phyllis's opinion. Frankly, she hasn't said anything different about Adsum than everyone I know who has tried it has said to me. These are all people who enjoy a variety of food from formal dining to food trucks -- as long as they deliver quality, delicious food.
It is interesting that Rick Nichols loved their chicken. I suppose I'll just have to take the chance and try Adsum myself.”
30. Anonymous said... on Aug 6, 2010 at 04:43PM
“the photo was taken with the restaurant closed & the outside tables stacked & chained up. real good, spr staff.”
31. Anonymous said... on Aug 7, 2010 at 02:58AM
“may i suggest olive garden? unlimited breadsticks and ice cream.”
32. Dana Michael said... on Aug 7, 2010 at 03:20PM
“This review was full of many opinions. It sounded like that of a grouchy grandmother, luckilly thats who reads SPR.
I found Adsum to be a wonderful addition to the neighborhood. And being that it has been jam packed with customers every night since it's open, I wonder if the writer's review could have been tainted by her own expierence.
Trouble in paradise with Harry, Phyllis?
”
33. d.ward said... on Aug 7, 2010 at 06:33PM
“Dear "food" critic:
I was just at Adsum and everything was amazing. FYI, those are cashews in the bibb lettuce salad. But after "sipping" (read gulping) the Sapphire, I can see how things can get blurry. It's scary (but not surprising) that you don't know the difference between the nuts...
Maybe the martini was on the left? Remember to always go for the glass in the middle... ;)
Kind of makes one wonder about everything else in the "review," huh?
keep up the good work.”
34. Dee said... on Aug 8, 2010 at 05:52PM
“I can't comment on the vitriol against the reviewer. I can however attempt to knock some common sense into this discussion. The two meals I've had at Adsum have been terrible. TERRIBLE. The fish sucks. The burgers suck. The perogi suck. The drinks suck. The desserts completely suck. The recipes are poorly conceived and there is not one item here that is worth even moment's consideration. It's astonishing this restaurant is so popular. Because, may I repeat, the food totally blows.”
35. Anonymous said... on Aug 9, 2010 at 02:28AM
“Dee, you should take psn's job. eloquence beyond measure, you have. i'm totally going now to see why all the buzz..”
36. cleevus said... on Aug 10, 2010 at 09:46PM
“wow. i didn't know this many people read that excuse for a weekly. nice to see south philly review still thrives on unabashed bias.”
37. Janice said... on Aug 11, 2010 at 02:39AM
“Im a bit suprised at the harshness being delivered to the food critic. She went to a restaurant (if its open, it should be reviewed) and didn't enjoy her experience. She may go another time and have a wonderful experience, but this night she encountered bland food and poor service. I have been to restaurants where I have had some wonderful meals and service and have gone back and had just the opposite. Sometimes it depends on the night, but I don't think berating the food critic for her opinion (which is what she is expected to give) is fair.”
38. jello said... on Aug 11, 2010 at 03:05AM
“Phyllis is a joke as far as reviews go; she came into the restaurant I cook at last week and sent one of her dishes back, complaining it was too salty after coming back from a 20 minute chain-smoke break, after sitting at the bar and sopping up loads of booze. Her sense of taste is non-existent.”
39. anonymous said... on Aug 11, 2010 at 10:20PM
“just wants to know why our time is wasted with bad reviews, that is what the front page is for...war, money, crime. The food section should be about joy, this review was mean, and in poor "taste" since food is one of the few things that can consistenly lighten our hearts. Phyliss, retire.”
40. Anonymous said... on Aug 12, 2010 at 10:16AM
“I <3 Phyllis!
Never retire.”
41. Anonymous said... on Aug 12, 2010 at 07:40PM
“I have witnessed multiple visits to restaurants by Phyllis...She ALWAYS makes herself known and gets upset when she isn't coddled and treated as a special guest. She has absolutely no cooth at all and is looking for attention as soon as she enters any establishment. It was actually kind of sad to watch her pretend she is as important as she acts. The staff on one particular visit seemed to be trying their best to amuse her, but nothing would do for her except to complain and feel like an expert opinion that others in the dining room should hear.”
42. LewBryson said... on Aug 17, 2010 at 02:55PM
“I don't know what it is about the Internet that brings out so much venom and vitriol. You anonymous commenters should be embarrassed. If you have issues with the review -- and I certainly do -- make your points. But sarcasm, accusations, and these scurrilous posts about the reviewer being a drunk have no place in any kind of civilized discourse. This is sad commentary indeed.”
43. Anchient Reviewer said... on Aug 20, 2010 at 05:02PM
“The Phyllis Stein-Novack standard for fois gras sizing:: half fetus foot, fetus foot, half premature baby foot, premature baby foot, half baby foot, baby foot, Phyllis Stein-Novack foot.”
44. Anonymous said... on Aug 21, 2010 at 09:20AM
“Phyllis you SUCK!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You are an old decripit B***H! You did the same thing at 10 arts. Got Wasted and tried to act like a hot shot. Discreet- please.
”
45. Dick Liquor said... on Sep 4, 2010 at 10:57AM
“Ha Ha Lew Bryson the notorious drunk who goes nuts because the LCB slows his drinking pace defending Phyllis Stein Novack. Lew you are a disgraceful drunk like Phyllis and your reviews suck even worse than hers. Get both your butts to AA you need to sober up you losers
LewBryson said... on Aug 17, 2010 at 02:55PM
“I don't know what it is about the Internet that brings out so much venom and vitriol. You anonymous commenters should be embarrassed. If you have issues with the review -- and I certainly do -- make your points. But sarcasm, accusations, and these scurrilous posts about the reviewer being a drunk have no place in any kind of civilized discourse. This is sad commentary indeed.”
”
46. Bread & Butter said... on Sep 27, 2010 at 07:45AM
“Hey what do you expect from the SPR?
Is everyone up in her grill because Matt is a local celeb? In my view Phyllis isn't far off in her overall assessment. Big shot reviewers maybe steering clear of reviewing Ad Sum because the Philly food press is about writing stuff that is calculated to please, more polite than principled. I don't think there's any brilliant cooking going on here. There are NO shades of Lacroix here.
The baby foot is a nightmarish image! Yet when an order of ahi tartar arrived for sharing at our table a pocket triple beam would have been useful to determine fair shares.
To offer modern American or bistro/French dining without bread and butter is begging for crankiness from customers who hope for an expression of the cuisine in the bread basket.
As far the corrosive comments.... sniveling conformists, talking crap, bleating to the lowest common denominator.
”
47. Anonymous said... on Oct 11, 2010 at 08:56AM
“Adsum just received 3 bells from Craig Laban! that's all :)”
48. The Truth hurts said... on Feb 25, 2011 at 12:39PM
“What is interesting is that Phyllis pointed out what was wrong and she was spot on. This gave the owners the opportunity to correct their shortcomings prior to other critics visiting. They should have paid Phyllis as a consultant. More people know what Craig Laban looks like than they do Phyllis and all the food critics drink too much-it's just part of the job. Adsum knew Laban was in the restaurant everytime he dined there. Things would have been different for Phyllis had she been recognized as Laban had been. Craig Laban has never written a four star review where he wasn't recognized on his visits.”