During the peak of corn season, grab it by the ear and get creative. Late author Elisabeth Rozin is a good source for recipes beyond the simple butter-and-grill technique.
Corn and tomatoes form the basis for dinner at our home during the summer months. Sometimes I just slice a juicy, red, ripe Jersey or Lancaster County tomato and sprinkle it with kosher salt.
I am more creative with local corn. Although I adore it slathered with melted butter, finding new ways with this summer staple is fun.
Corn is best enjoyed the day you buy it. It can be tossed on the grill, cooked in boiling water for a few minutes or zapped in the microwave. I shuck each ear, drizzle it with water, wrap it in plastic and cook it on high for two minutes, then turn and cook for another two minutes. When summer corn is waning, I buy ears and ears to freeze. Simply run a sharp knife down the kernels, place in a freezer bag and freeze. Then, on a dreary November day or snowy December evening, a bit of summer brightens up the dinner table.
I make concoctions or peruse my cookbooks for inspiration. A recipe is not written in stone. It is a guide.
Corn, or what Native-Americans called maize, is a New World food. It has many uses. Corn can be turned into corn oil, the dreaded high fructose corn syrup, corn meal and grits. I love grits with butter and kosher salt. I would rather have grits as a side than hash browns at breakfast.
One of the finest books on my shelf is “Blue Corn and Chocolate,” written by my friend, food historian and author Elisabeth Rozin. Liz passed away a few years ago and I miss her wise counsel. Her inscription on my copy reads: “For Phyllis, sister and friend. Keep at it, baby!”
The “keep at it” means writing and publishing. Liz wrote a number of books. I tested recipes for her last book “The Universal Kitchen.” She enjoyed my columns and knew I was working on a new cookbook.
Ingredients:
2 tablespoons of butter
1 medium onion, minced
1 medium sweet red pepper, seeded and diced
1 stalk of celery, diced
1 carrot, diced
Corn kernels from five ears of corn
2 cups of light cream
1/2 teaspoon of salt
1/2 tablespoon of sugar
Several good grinds of black pepper
Good dash of cayenne pepper
1/4 teaspoon of mace
2 eggs
1 tablespoon of flour
Directions:
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Heat the butter over medium in a saucepan. Add the next four ingredients and sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion is wilted.
Add the corn, cream and seasonings. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, over moderate heat for about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool slightly.
Whisk the eggs and thoroughly stir in the flour. Stir the eggs into the corn mixture and blend well.
Turn the mixture into a buttered 2-quart casserole or baking dish. Bake for about 30 minutes, or until the custard is set and the top is lightly browned. Let stand for a few minutes before serving.
Serves six to eight.
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