South Philly Review

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With Chinese New Year upon us, Sandy and I bundled up on a brutally cold day and headed for Chinatown for a warming leisurely lunch. The choices are dazzling, but that’s half the fun of bustling Chinatown.

I decided on Viet Thai Restaurant because I’ve always enjoyed their pho, curries and other Asian dishes. It’s a small, nondescript space where patrons tuck into good-sized portions of tasty food at ridiculously low prices.

We waited about 10 minutes and settled into a table for two set with red-and-white paper place mats describing the signs of the Chinese zodiac, heavy plastic chopsticks and paper napkins. Bottles of soy, hoisin and Sriacha sauces, along with a small glass jar of peppery chile sauce, were on every table.

Complimentary steaming hot jasmine tea warmed us up immediately. Like so many Asian restaurants, the menu, filled with diverse Chinese, Vietnamese and Thai dishes, is large and can be overwhelming. I know how to navigate my way because I instinctively knew the kinds of dishes Sandy would like.

Pho, one of the national dishes of Vietnam, can be prepared in a myriad of ways. It is one of my favorite soups. I ordered the pho with meatballs and rice noodles ($8.95) and asked the waiter for an extra big bowl and ladle so we could serve ourselves. A plate of shredded picked daikon radish, carrots, bean sprouts, lime wedges, fragrant Thai basil sprigs and mint sprigs arrived with the Pho. I ladled some into Sandy's bowl and told her to add some of the vegetables and a squeeze of lime.

The broth was hot, light and refreshing. There must have been at least a dozen seasoned meatballs, akin in appearance to sausages in taste and texture, floating in the soup. I took my chopsticks and separated the rice noodles for easy eating. The best way to eat them is with chopsticks but Sandy asked for a fork so she could twirl them like spaghetti. I added a tad of Sriacha to my soup, which gave it a tasty kick. Since the portion was so generous, we packed half of it to go.

Three spring rolls ($4.50) sliced into thirds were filled with minced pork and fried to a golden crispness. A small dish of sweet and sour dipping sauce added just the right touch of flavor to these classic appetizers. Sandy particularly enjoyed them since the wrapper was slightly different from egg and spring rolls she has sampled in other restaurants.

Next up were two cool, plump shrimp rolls ($3), which were expertly prepared. Thin rice paper wrappers were filled with shredded coriander, small vermicelli threads and small, slightly sweet shrimp slices that were a fine foil in taste and texture to the spring rolls. I liked the thick, viscously chopped peanut-topped sauce that came with the rolls as it, too, had a fine foil for the sweet and sour sauce we enjoyed with our first course.

Grape leaves stuffed with minced grilled beef ($5.95) consisted of small, thin cigar-like treats nestled on a bed of lettuce, bean sprouts, daikon and carrots. The waiter brought us a bowl of boiling water and round rice paper sheets, which we softened in the water bath. I made a wrap for the grape leaves, took a bite and discovered I preferred to eat them straight. The texture and flavor of the beef was dandy.

A hefty portion of shrimp fried rice ($8.95) was about the best you will find in Chinatown. Jasmine rice was used in this dish, imparting a fine flavor and aroma. It was light beige in color and filled with small sweet shrimp, scrambled egg bits and diced scallion. More than half was packed to go for a late dinner.

For some reason, service was off its game during our meal at Viet Thai. Several waiters were more attuned than others. Still, it was a tasty way to come in from the cold and warm up.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Viet Thai Restaurant. SPR

Viet Thai Restaurant
907 Race St.
215-627-8883
phillychinatown.com/vietthai.htm

Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.