Crisp delight

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As summer winds down, many fruits will go out of season,  but the apple’s time of year is now in full effect. Pick your  favorite variety to feature in these apple-inspired creations.  

By Phyllis Stein-Novack 

Add Comment | Comments: 0 | Posted Sep. 8, 2011

Apple season is here and I’ve been looking through my cookbooks for ideas and inspiration. I love a good tart apple. There are so many varieties in supermarkets, farmers markets, farm stands and specialty grocery stores that I find it fun to mix and match. 

Although Washington state is famous for its red delicious apple, Pennsylvania grows an array of them for us to simply eat out of hand, make applesauce or add to a salad or entrée. The desserts can be simple or elaborate. It is not autumn or Thanksgiving time without apple pie with a heaping scoop of ice cream. 

Some apples are slated for cooking rather than eating raw. I do not care for a sliced Granny Smith apple but I like to cook with it. My favorites are Royal Gala, Fuji, Braeburns, Rome Beauty, Jonathans, Jonagolds and Honeycrisp, which have gained in popularity within the past few years. 

When buying apples, let your eyes and nose be your guides. They should have a smooth skin with no blemishes. Smell them. Fresh apples have a lovely distinctive aroma. 

Place them in a pretty bowl or basket and keep it on the kitchen counter or table. After a few days, you can store them in the vegetable crisper of your refrigerator. 

While making potato latkes with chef Christopher Thames last December, he picked up my European wooden salt box and sprinkled some kosher salt on top of the applesauce. 

Salt brings out the sweetness of apples, he said. He also sliced a few apples and I sampled them sprinkled with salt as well. 

“Delicious,” I said. “I’ll enjoy apples this way from now on.”  

Roasted Chicken Thighs  with Apple, Gin and  Coriander Seeds

From “In the Kitchen with a Good Appetite” by Melissa Clark

Ingredients: 

1 large or 2 small apples 
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut into one-inch strips 
2 tablespoons of extra-virgin olive oil 
1 tablespoon of dry vermouth 
1-1/2 teaspoons of gin 
2 tablespoons of fresh cilantro, dill or parsley, chopped 
2 garlic cloves, minced 
1 teaspoon of whole coriander seeds 
1/2 teaspoon of kosher salt 
1/2 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper 
Crusty bread or rice, for serving 

Directions:  

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. 

Core the apples and slice as thinly as you can without getting out (or buying) a mandoline (between 1/8- and 1/4-inch thick is fine). 

In a 9-by-13-inch pan, toss all of the ingredients together except for 1 tablespoon of cilantro (or dill or parsley). Spread the ingredients out into one layer in the pan. Roast for about 20 minutes until the chicken is cooked through and the apples are softened. Garnish with the remaining cilantro, dill or parsley. The sauce will be thin, so serve with a crusty bread for sopping up the sauce or over rice. 

Serves two to three. 

Note from Phyllis: This is a great company dish for a casual dinner party. The recipe can be easily doubled. 

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