Al Zaytouna in Bella Vista offers guests hummus, falafel and other Mediterranean delicacies in a comfortable, casual setting.
Restaurant critics discover new restaurants in a number of ways. I tip my toque to our readers who contact me via e-mail, Twitter and snail mail, telling me about the latest place for brunch or for an informal dinner.
I recently learned about Al Zaytouna, a middle-eastern gem in the Italian Market. I was good to go. Eastern Mediterranean foods are among my favorites ever since my first trip to Israel.
Located next door to the delightful Sabrina’s, Al Zaytouna reflects the casual feel of the neighborhood. The restaurant is BYOB and has takeout, catering and delivery service. The owner, who took excellent care of us, is from Tunisia.
Sandy, Edward and I began our dinner with a variety of appetizers ($11.95), which whet our appetite for the meal ahead. People begin with this array of starters in restaurants and at home throughout the Middle East.
A basket of warm, immaculately fresh pita arrived along with a large platter of tempting foods. It contained homemade hummus, which was light, creamy and topped with a tiny pool of olive oil; baba ghannouj, or whipped eggplant spread; two cool grape leaves stuffed with aromatic rice; two of the finest falafel this side of Tel Aviv; and a generous mound of tabouli, chopped with fresh parsley and herbs. Sometimes hummus has a grainy taste and texture, but this version was prepared just right. It was a first for Sandy, who thoroughly enjoyed smearing it on warm pita. We enjoyed the falafel so much, we ordered it as an appetizer ($4.95) and quickly polished them off. They were crispy and free of grease on the outside, creamy with pureed chickpeas, parsley and spices on the inside.
Since it was a bitter cold night, I warmed up with a generous bowl of homemade lentil soup ($3.95), which was rich with diced carrots, celery and onions. It packed quite a punch. Perhaps a bit of harissa made its way into the soup. It was so piping hot, I waited a few minutes for it to cool down.
Kofta are often served as an appetizer but Al Zaytouna offers these small, cigar-shaped seasoned ground beef beauties as a platter ($12.95). Sandy, who ordered the chicken shawarma platter ($10.95), could not believe the amount of food on one plate. The platters are so generous that two people could share one.
The kofta, which were nicely charred on the outside, emitting a smoky flavor and aroma, were as fine as I have tried in many Middle Eastern places. My dinner included a big pool of hummus; rice tossed with carrots and peas as well as grilled onions and red peppers; and a tossed salad.
Sandy’s dinner consisted of a large chicken cutlet pounded thin, charcoal-grilled and cut into small pieces. It lacked eye appeal because the smoke of the grill gave the chicken a grayish hue but the flavor was spot on. It was a tad spicy and married well with the rice and hummus.
Unfortunately for us, the restaurant was out of its merguez sausages that went to a catering client that evening. The owner suggested the lamb kebob sandwich ($9.95). Edward said the lamb was as tender as marshmallows. Cubes of grilled leg of lamb made their way into a large piece of warm pita, topped with lettuce and tomatoes and rolled up like a carpet. As with all of the meats we tasted here, the lamb was perfectly seasoned.
Sandy never tasted a chopped salad, so we ordered one for the table ($5.95). Tiny dices of seedless cucumber, sweet onion, tomatoes, green peppers and sweet red onions were tossed with olive oil and lemon juice and topped with tiny black and green olives. The salad was simple, fresh, light and fragrant.
Since the platters were so generous, much of our dinners were carefully packed to go. The hummus was placed into a heavy, plastic container and served as a tasty lunch with the kofta, chicken and salads.
Al Zaytouna is a good place to go if you crave the foods of the sunny Mediterranean, served in a relaxed, casual atmosphere at very moderate prices. It is a fine addition to Bella Vista.
Three tips of the toque to Al Zaytouna. SPR
906 Christian St.
215-574-5040
al-zaytouna.com
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
Article:
Dante and Luigi’s
Article:
Rex 1516
Article:
SoWe
Article:
La Scala’s Pronto
Article:
Reserve
Article:
Jamonera
Article:
Square Peg
Article:
Nina’s Trattoria
1. Al Anon said... on Jan 26, 2012 at 01:19PM
“Edward, I see you're in denial now. It looks like you made your wife suppress all talk of your drinking at this BYOB. C'mon, what was it, a flask of martinis? A bottle or two of chenin blanc?”
2. Anonymous said... on Jan 26, 2012 at 01:40PM
“Sandy has really been expanding her culinary horizons lately! While I'm sad a woman of what I assume is "her age" has never had hummus, I'm glad she finally tried it - and liked it! Keep on truckin', Sandy!”
3. bobbiedobbs said... on Jan 26, 2012 at 08:10PM
“Three toques AGAIN. Every week. Who's paying whom? The ratings have been rendered meaningless.
I would substitute the following template: "All restaurants reviewed in the south Philly review are considered exceptional, regardless of quality."
What a disservice to whose who want to actually get a read on the quality of these places.”
4. Jenny said... on Jan 27, 2012 at 07:49AM
“Sandy never tasted a chopped salad? Are you effen kidding me? This woman is portrayed as the village idiot.”
5. Phyllis Stein-Novack said... on Jan 27, 2012 at 10:49AM
“Dear Jenny:
Sandy had been living in the suburbs for so long, she has never truly experienced the wealth of diverse cuisines in the city. Until now. She has been culinarily sheltered so to speak. Living surrounded by fast food chains, shopping malls, etc. Now she enjoys eating in restaurants owned by people, not corporations. Just last night she said as we walked along East Passyunk Avenue, "this is starting to be my home away from home." Sandy is discovering the bustle and fun of shopping in and dining in the Italian Market and East Passyunk. This is a first and one fine first it truly is.”
6. Marty Medals said... on Jan 27, 2012 at 12:37PM
“Nice to see you in the market.
There are many more fine establishments there to review. You spend at least three weeks every night eating at places like Sabrina's, Villa D'Roma, and on and on and on.
Also, why no review of that fine place of great eats (and great urinals) Broad Street Diner?”
7. Phyllis Stein-Novack said... on Jan 27, 2012 at 02:39PM
“Dear Marty:
I have reviewed Villa D'Roma and Sabrina's. If restaurants hire a new chef or completely revamp their menus, I would make a return visit. I review New restaurants. There are so many I cannot keep up with them. New places are opening all over town. Have you been to Monsu, Birra, Fond, Paradiso, Tre Scalini? They are among the my favorites.”
8. bobbiedobbs said... on Jan 28, 2012 at 06:47PM
“Notice Phyllis LOVES to talk about herself and her family but when it comes to responding about non-reviews (three toques every single week) she is silent.”
9. Gives a new meaning to "slow food" said... on Jan 29, 2012 at 12:48PM
“Did you go to the same Al Zatouna we went to? Both times the food was bland and unremarkable and the service was painfully slow. The last time we placed a take out order and, even though the restaurant was empty, after walking all the way down to Washington and back to do some shopping, our two sandwiches were still were not ready. In Tel Aviv this place would be out of business in about 5 minutes. Go to Kebab House instead.”
10. bobbiedobbs said... on Jan 29, 2012 at 05:34PM
“Gives a New Meaning: There's no way of telling whether the place was good or not as the reviewer gives the same "exceptional" rating to every place she reviews! "Exceptional" is supposed to mean the exception, not the rule. Who knows what the food was actually like. Kind of a disservice to the truly "exceptional" establishments...the SPR would give Burger King three tips of the toque!”
11. Marty Medals said... on Jan 30, 2012 at 04:00PM
“In today's Phila Inquirer is a fine review of Date and Luigi's.
Now there is a great place.
Several years ago I was sitting with family at the main table for eight. In walks a few guys wearing black overcoats with bulges on the lest side of their coat. I look at them and they smile at me.
The matre'd comes to my table and says the following, " I am so sorry, you are at the wrong table.You will have to move."
I moved faster that you can say Broad Street Diner.
Mr Stanfa sent a bottle of wine to my new table. What a man.”
12. Staunch said... on Jan 30, 2012 at 09:36PM
“Time was when gay was a happy word. No more. Don't let them do the same to the word marriage.”
13. Ph. D. said... on Jan 30, 2012 at 09:40PM
“Stein or Novack. Make up your mind. Using both is confusing, awkward, and unnecessary.”