South Philly Review

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Several years ago, I was sure the sushi craze had jumped the shark. I was wrong. Japanese restaurants are reproducing as fast as Center City squirrels. Some are storefronts offering inexpensive rolls while others, such as Zama on Rittenhouse Square, are beautifully appointed spaces featuring immaculately fresh and innovative Asian cuisine.

While strolling Walnut Street several weeks ago, I stumbled upon Fat Salmon, Center City’s newest Japanese restaurant. Since it is open for lunch, I walked in and asked for a take-home menu. I was itching to see if Fat Salmon could rival Zama as far as freshness of ingredients and creativity in the kitchen.

Alexander is the sushi maven in my circle of friends. He is an attorney with the soul of a poet. Alexander regales me with stories that run the gamut from hilarious to philosophical. He brought a bottle of saké and I stopped by Garces Trading Company for a crisp, dry Riesling from Alsace.

You might think the name Fat Salmon is funny, but nothing is finer than a thick, fatty center cut piece of wild salmon. Alexander thought the name implied a more casual restaurant. Fat Salmon is upscale casual.

The dining space is a long, lean room with a white lacquer sushi bar, hanging lights, a wall depicting ocean waves and another covered by a colorful mural.

Our server placed the saké in an ice bucket and opened the Riesling. She placed it in another bucket and our meal began.

I asked Alexander to order for us. This is a bon idée because he knows the difference between top-quality sushi and sashimi and fish that is just so-so.

To me, miso soup smells and tastes like dirty sweat socks. But it is my responsibility to sample it. The soup had tiny cubes of tofu and some greens floating in the broth. Alexander liked it. For me, it still smelled and tasted like dirty sweat socks.

The house salad was the typical iceberg leaves and grated carrot tossed in a ginger dressing. These items are complementary because Alexander ordered the sushi for two ($32).

The platter consisted of tuna rolls and avocado rolls, which were rolled in fish roe. Eel, salmon, yellow tail, whitefish, shrimp, mackerel, white tuna, slightly spicy California roll all were represented.

There are 27 special rolls from which to choose. Dragonfly ($10.50) consisted of six pieces of shrimp tempura, cucumber with a spicy sauce on top and eel and avocado with eel sauce on top. The tempura was hot and crisp and although I adore eel, I never tasted eel sauce. It was, well, tasty.

Rock & roll ($8.50) took the tuna and salmon route. The platter contained six pieces of tuna, salmon and cucumber with a crunchy eel sauce on top. Alexander and I discussed the creative ways the fish were turned into rolls but we agreed on the middling quality of the fish.

We wanted to sample a hot dish and ordered steamed shrimp shumai ($5). Five bite-size morsels were created with a noodle dough so light and transparent you could read a newspaper through it. They were sublime and melted in our mouths.

Service at Fat Salmon was pleasant and attentive. Clean plates arrived for each course and our water glasses were kept filled. By the time Alexander and I were midway through our meal, every seat was taken. I noticed everyone brought a bottle of wine.

By the time you read this review, Fat Salmon may have its liquor license. With or without a liquor license, this restaurant gives you value for your money. Although the quality of the sushi and sashimi is not as fine as Zama, it is an inexpensive way to enjoy an afternoon or evening.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Fat Salmon.

Fat Salmon
719 Walnut St.
215-928-8881