South Philly Review

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I cannot think of a finer way to spend an autumn Sunday afternoon than going to brunch and a matinee performance of the Pennsylvania Ballet. The premiere of Roland Petit’s “Carmen” was on the bill along with “Concerto Barocco,” one of my favorite dances choreographed by George Balanchine. I thought about Spanish food, but I prefer breakfast fare to tapas at 11 a.m.

Edward and I wanted to brunch at a restaurant near our home and then stroll down Walnut Street to The Academy of Music. I recently received an e-mail about Le Castagne’s Sunday brunch.

The restaurant décor is sleek, modern and elegant. All the fittings were made in Milan. I especially liked the long, slim hanging lights over the bar. We settled into a table for four by the large windows which front Chestnut Street.

Tables are set with white linen and contemporary tableware. Two young men took fine care of us. We sipped a bloody mary ($8) and looked over the menu.

“We also have a buffet brunch for $20,” one of our servers advised. “You also can order an entrée for half price from our menu.”

This was an exceptional bargain. The buffet features brunch and lunch dishes which run the gamut from bagels and nova to the fish of the day.

We made several trips to the chafing dishes and eye-appealing displays of cool foods. Each time we returned, our table was clear.

An assortment of charcuterie was a light way to begin a satisfying brunch. Imported prosciutto di Parma kept company with salumi, chunks of Parmigianno-Reggiano, imported fontina, thinly-sliced smoked salmon, tiny capers and individual ramekins of chopped egg whites and yolks. Homemade cheddar muffins, almost biscuit-like in taste and texture, were top-notch. I slathered them with butter and enjoyed my antipasto. I asked our server for some olive oil. He brought a small dish along with a demitasse spoon.

The Mediterranean selections were tasty and fresh. White anchovies, a selection of olives, marinated artichokes, roasted peppers, tiny cubes of cool roasted beets and a tossed salad served as a second course.

The best way to enjoy brunch is to rest a bit and restore one’s energy and appetite. The chafing dishes contained roulade of flounder; veal Marsala; small crab cakes; scrambled eggs; fat slices of bacon topped with maple syrup; chubby sausages and rosemary potatoes.

I helped myself to crab cakes and bacon. Sounds strange, but when enjoyed separately, they were fine. I like to taste the salt in bacon, but the sweetness of the syrup disguised it. The sausages were plump, juicy and filled with flavor. The crab cakes were just OK. At least they were not overcooked.

Edward and I shared the eggs Benedict ($12 a la carte, $6 with the buffet). We received a most inspirational culinary rendition of this classic. The chef uses a cookie cutter to fashion a round of toasted Italian bread. He places some Prosciutto di Parma on top, tops it with a perfectly poached egg napped with dreamy homemade hollandaise heady with truffle.

With this in life, nothing is bad. A chef must respect the egg. The white must be slightly hard, the yolk golden and oozing when broken with a fork. If awards are given for eggs Benedict, this one wins. Our entrée was split in the kitchen so we each received one portion served on a warm plate.

Next up was a plate of fresh fruit including juicy, sweet, ripe pineapple slices, California strawberries which imparted a lovely aroma but little flavor, chunks of melon and slices of kiwi.

The homemade Danish were outrageous. Flaky buttery pastry was topped with either cheese or raspberries. Cinnamon swirl coffeecake took me back to my grandmother’s kitchen. All Danish and coffeecakes were small and individually sized.

Edward ordered coffee ($3), but I was completely satisfied. I took a small sip. It was strong, freshly-brewed and piping hot.

Edward and I were the sole brunch patrons during the hour-and-a-half we spent at Le Castagne. I can only assume few know the restaurant is open for Sunday brunch.

At Le Castagne you will enjoy a fine meal in beautiful surroundings. You will not be disappointed.

Three tips of the toque to Le Castagne. SPR