South Philly Review

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“Phyllis, how are you? It’s me, Nicole. Do you remember me? I worked at Mama Palma’s and my husband and I own this restaurant.”

My friend Dan and I were greeted with these words as we took our seats at Maru Global, Nicole and Ryo Igarashi’s 2-month-old Japanese restaurant. Nicole took our bottle of sake and German Riesling and placed them in a bucket of ice.

As soon as she whisked away our wine, I told Dan I did not think she knows I am a restaurant critic. I frequent Mama Palma’s because I adore the wood-burning oven pizza and oversized salads.

Dan and I share a sense of adventure when it comes to food. Maru Global features takoyaki. Neither Dan nor I have ever heard of these sweet and savory treats. Ryo is from Tokyo. I have never visited Japan and have never seen takoyaki on an Asian menu.

The base is sort of like a waffle batter, said our server.

Maru Global is bare-bones inside. The walls are a bright white, there’s a tile floor circa 1970 and a long glass case filled with bowls of yellow and red cherry tomatoes, Japanese salads and edamame nestled in plastic containers.

Dan and I placed our order at the counter and ate in three shifts. This way we were able to savor each delicious bite.

As I filled our plastic cups with sake, Dan ordered the octopus and sirloin takoyaki ($3.25 each). The six bite-sized crepe balls were piping hot. They were so hot the heat fiercely trickled through the paper holder. One bite and the creamy filling oozed into our mouths with a burst of flavor. To be honest, I could not truly decipher any octopus or sirloin because of the creamy texture. They were topped with a light sauce and dried bonito flakes.

Edamame ($2.99) were warm and slightly salty. Dan and I had fun pulling the beans from their protective pods with our teeth.

I never knew the Japanese eat potato salad. Maru Global’s version ($2.99) was whipped with crème fraîche imparting an unusual fine flavor. Forget the Hellmann’s. I’m going to make this recipe using crème fraîche next time. Bits of potato and shredded carrot were included in the mix.

We asked our server if we could have some plates or bowls because Dan and I like to share. We used both wooden chopsticks and inexpensive plastic forks and spoons to dish out our dinner.

Wild seaweed salad ($2.99) was a mix of green and fuchsia strands of cool kelp mixed with cucumbers. The slightly sweet soy dressing was served on the side.

Corn and salsa verde ($3.25) were uncommonly good. These are Japanese hush puppies, said Dan in his finest Southern drawl. Six balls were prepared with seasoned cornmeal. They were akin to cornbread and arrived with a tasty salsa verde and topped with Cotija cheese, which melted beautifully. I never heard of this cheese, but according to my bible, “The Cheese Primer” by Steven Jenkins, it is from Mexico. It is aged and tasted slightly salty like feta.

From the yakisoba (noodles), we selected the sirloin version ($5.99). This dish was prepared with ramen noodles which were stir-fried on the grill. Bits of scrambled egg, bean sprouts, carrots, onions, cabbage and a side of pickled ginger were added to the flecks of beef and noodles. I especially liked it with the pickled ginger.

I prefer curry if it is not too pungent. Beef curry ($5.99) was served over rice and reduced down into a thick sauce. The menu states it was slow-cooked.

We asked for the check, but our server brought us complimentary hot chocolate chip maru balls ($4). Oh my goodness, these treats were delectable.

I am sure you have made a special note of the prices. Dinner for two came to $30.70. I did not mind pouring my own sake and wine and helping myself to the pitcher of ice water on the counter.

Maru Global is a find. I wonder if the students and faculty at Jefferson have discovered it yet.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Maru Global.