McCrossen's Tavern, a Fairmount eatery, has revamped its menu with an array of French-inspired options.
Choucroute garnie is one of the great dishes of the world. Choucroute — French for sauerkraut — is painstakingly prepared with shredded cabbage, which is packed in brine and turned into sauerkraut; diced onions cooked in goose, duck or chicken fat, chicken stock, dry white wine, juniper berries and herbs, cuts of pork; steamed potatoes; and a variety of sausages. Steaming hot choucroute garnie is now served at McCrossen’s Tavern.
My family and I have dined at McCrossen’s for many years. We loved the Caesar salads and burgers, homemade soups and linguine with clams. But chef Todd Wentz has totally revamped the menu bringing a breath of fresh French culinary air to Fairmount at ridiculously moderate prices.
McCrossen’s is housed in a brick townhouse built in 1852. Sandy, Edward and I were lucky to snare three seats at the bar since the dining room was filled to capacity. We received a basket of warm French bread and soft butter. We were hungry for several dishes we have not recently seen on restaurant menus.
Wines by the glass are carefully selected from around the world. A knowledgeable woman helped me to decide a glass of Grüner Veltliner ($8) from Austria was a perfect marriage with choucroute. Sandy liked the oaky chardonnay ($9) while Edward sipped a Vaucluse Cote du Rhone ($8).
Brandade ($8) is a marvel of whipped salt cod, olive oil, garlic, milk and cream. This Provence classic, which I have not seen on a menu in eons, arrived in an individual black cast-iron oval and came with toasted buttery French bread. It’s a light and tasty way to whet the appetite. The dish was a first for Sandy who truly enjoyed it.
The pork belly ($8) was another winning dish. It is becoming ubiquitous these days, but Wentz prepared it perfectly. It was so tender that it melted in our mouths.
Moving on to the bone marrow, fans of “Top Chef” will recall Richard Blaise’s award-winning roasted bone marrow entrée that wowed the judges. I love bone marrow. I love the silken center on veal shanks and the prize when I eat osso bucco, so I wanted to see how Wentz served it. The dish ($9) looked like a 12-inch pre-historic bone filled with juicy, silky and seasoned marrow that I dug out with my fork. Heavens it was so good I could have downed another.
Sandy’s sense of culinary adventure is strengthening with each new dish. Her pan-roasted striped bass with roasted Brussels sprouts ($19) was a fine introduction to a different fin fish. Her fin fish repertoire previously had consisted of broiled flounder and roasted black cod.
I was truly astonished when I saw the big copper pot of choucroute garnie ($19). It was big enough for two. Wentz added tender pork belly; thick, spicy bratwurst and weisswurst; and steamed potatoes to the simmering wine-enhanced broth. Juniper berries floated throughout, giving the dish its unique flavor. The potatoes and sauerkraut, thoroughly rinsed of its brine, retained a bit of bite. I make choucroute at home and confess Wentz’s is a masterpiece of subtle flavors and textures.
Duck confit ($18) is another winter French favorite. Wentz cooks the duck in its own fat, roasts it, shreds it into tender juicy strips and serves it over a large portion of lightly sauced al dente orecchiette. I’ve tasted duck ragu on ribbon pasta but since the duck was shredded, it nestled comfortably into the little ears providing an immediate burst of flavor. Pasta and duck united beautifully in this entrée.
I still cannot get over the bill of fare Wentz has brought to this neighborhood tavern. It hits the high French culinary mark in offering stick-to-your-ribs peasant dishes filled with flavor, yet simply prepared with the finest ingredients Wentz purchases for McCrossen’s.
The only negative was the extremely loud music on the sound system.
Three extraordinary tips of the toque to McCrossen’s Tavern. SPR
McCrossen’s Tavern
529 N. 20th St.
215-854-0923
Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.
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1. Marty Medals said... on Jan 12, 2012 at 11:46AM
“They put on loud music for only one reason, to get people the hell out so they can turn tables.
I for one will not eat in a place that shows me when I walk in that the want me to get out as soon as possible. Especially when I'm not as drunk as normal.
That's why I like the Broad Street Diner.
No Music!!
Great rest rooms to take a piss in during the parade.”
2. DD said... on Jan 12, 2012 at 12:40PM
“To PSN - nicely written piece.
To Marty - Loud music at McCrossen's is not an attempt to quicken table turnover. That is an obnoxious statement and devoid of truth. It is quite rude in its tone. I've been to McCrossen's more than a dozen times since the changeover, and the music is simply a part of the environment, primarily the bar, and makes for an energetic, fun spot. Don't forget, McCrossen's is still a neighborhood bar that is melding French with tavern. The fact you bring up Broad Street Diner in relation to this piece is enough to understand your palate and dining habits. Hence, your opinion is worthless, and unfounded.”
3. Marty Medals said... on Jan 13, 2012 at 10:16AM
“Dear DD,
My dining habits are of the topmost quality. I usually use a fork when eating my food, unless of course I'm at the Eagles game and then I am usually only drinking beer.(after all why use a fork on beer?)
But, back to your points about loud music. I have an acquaintance who owns five higher quality restaurants in the Philly area. He is my source for the info about using loud music to turn tables. In fact he paid money to a consultant for that recommendation.
Now, as far as enjoying the Broad Street Diner, mike hunt is correct. The toilet paper is as scratchy as using a Daily News (which I have had to use on occasion). Mike, I suggest that while ding there ask Anita, the waitress,for a half dozen extra napkins. She knows already what you will need them for.”
4. Skinny Joey said... on Jan 15, 2012 at 01:51PM
“It's a documented fact that fat people die die earlier than thin people, other factors being equal. And drinking a daily martinit doesn't help.
Such people should be allowed to consume whenever and whatever they want, however. It's the American way.
I just don't fancy this newspaper's looking askance, week after week, at the health danger to its readers if they were to imitate the martinit-to-soup-to-nuts diet presented in this column. It's the culinary equivalent of a series explaining how to assemble a bomb.
C'mon SPR, it's entertaining reading, but how about a counter-column occasionally explaining how/where to eat in a healthy manner. Edward is likely one hell of a nice guy, but we'd like to outlive him.”
5. Anonymous said... on Jan 15, 2012 at 04:00PM
“Is Sandy one of those women trapped for years in a basement in Logan? Geez.”
6. Anonymous said... on Jan 16, 2012 at 02:21PM
“South Philly has such a vibrant food community. Why does the SOUTH Philly Review employ a critic from the Art Museum area who continually reviews places not in SOUTH Philly? There are way too many awesome places south of Washington to have a paper dedicated to our neighborhood constantly feature restaurants elesewhere.
Seriously.”
7. Marty Medals said... on Jan 17, 2012 at 02:05PM
“I agree.
South Philly has a great tradition of splendid restaurants.
Until such time that all are reviewed in this column I believe that Phyllis and Ed and even Sandy should stay South of South Street in their selection of places to review.
I for one would love to read a review of all of the great diners in South Philly starting with the excellent Broad Street Diner.
Ed would love throwing up in the men's room after eating there.
”
8. joe bulge said... on Jan 17, 2012 at 02:27PM
“I read that Gino"s is planning on openeing some spots in the city. I could taste that Gino Giant now.”
9. Marty Medals said... on Jan 17, 2012 at 05:49PM
“Yes, they will open several in the Philly Area.
"everybody goes to Gino's..."
I hope the review will send someone who can respect a place like Gino's. Ya know, they don't kiss the ass of a restaurant critic like most places do.”
10. Cyndy said... on Jan 20, 2012 at 08:31AM
“Uhg. stop mentioning the Broad Street Diner... !!”