South Philly Review

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Salt & Pepper opened six years ago as a tiny non-descript BYOB in Bella Vista. Until I had studied the new “Zagat Guide,” I would not have known this delightful place is now nestled between Fond and Paradiso. The front bar and back dining room is properly lit. I could actually see the food on my plate. The soft music — a bit of jazz from time to time — put us in the mood for a fine meal and conversation.


The kitchen is under the direction of chef Lacina “Kouma” Koné, who worked at Brassiere Perrier. He has put together a new American bistro menu. 


A woman greeted Sandy, Edward and I, showed us to our table and explained the menu. We dove into a basket with a warm-from-the-oven loaf of bread, and softened, slightly salted butter. A gentleman discussed wine pairings and his selections were right on the culinary mark.


I sipped a glass of buttery chardonnay from Oak Grove Vineyard in California while Sandy and Edward sipped a grassy sauvignon blanc from Chile’s Santa Rita Vineyard. Generous wines by the glass are $8. 


I began dinner with orecciette with chunks of perfectly cooked Maine lobster bathed in a spicy tomato sauce ($14). The sauce was rich and spiced just right, a fine foil for the sweetness of the lobster.


Sandy’s shrimp and crab spring rolls ($12) were prepared with a delicate wrapper, fried crisp and served with kimchi and a chili dipping sauce. I almost fell off of my chair when my sister, a picky eater, actually tried the kimchi. The rolls were fine, indeed. We especially enjoyed the slightly sweet and tangy sauce paired with the hot Korean vegetables.


Edward’s hummus with grilled shrimp served with grilled pita triangles ($8) was almost as good as the hummus I enjoyed in Israel. The shrimp were marinated before hitting the grill and imparted a lovely smoky aroma and flavor. 


Since Sandy wanted a burger ($12), I could not wait to see how Koné would prepare rack of lamb ($28) and Edward decided on roast chicken ($20), the waiter suggested California’s Firestone Cabernet Sauvignon ($35). This man should become a sommelier. He is knows much about pairing wine with food.


Ten ounces of Angus beef was seared on the outside, medium on the inside and served on a toasted soft bun with a large, ripe tomato slice and lettuce. The beef was well-seasoned as were the crispy fries.


I adore rack of lamb. I grew up eating rib lamb chops once a week. Koné Frenched the bones and roasted the racks before slicing them into serving pieces. Lamb should be eaten medium rare. Anything else is a crime. The meat was tender, juicy and so delicious that I gnawed away at the bones. My dinner came with toasted orzo, eggplant caviar and a few Brussels sprout leaves, tangy bits of feta cheese and carrots. I would have liked to have seen more vegetables. Koné served the lamb in a natural jus laced with fresh fragrant thyme. My portion was so generous, I gave Edward a lamb chop to enjoy with his chicken.


Roast chicken can be tricky in a restaurant. Koné’s version should receive an award. The plump, luscious, farm-raised chicken breast was served in its naturally reduced juices. Edward agreed he would have liked more vegetables, but we could not fine fault with any of our entrées. Although the chicken is usually served on a bed of risotto, Edward requested it on the side. It was slightly runny and creamy — just as it should be.


Desserts are retro at Salt & Pepper. The chocolate lava cake ($8) was perfectly executed and nice, hot and runny inside. A generous mound of vanilla ice cream highlighted the richness of the chocolate.


Service was perfect, even though Salt & Pepper was totally booked. The staff is professional, knowledgeable and courteous. It also is kid-friendly. 


Three tips of the toque to Salt & Pepper. SPR


Salt & Pepper

1623 E. Passyunk Ave.

215-238-1920

www.saltandpepperphilly.com


Contact the South Philly Review at editor@southphillyreview.com.