FOOD & DRINK > RESTAURANT REVIEWS

Sassafras Bar

By Phyllis Stein-Novack
Add Comment Add Comment | Comments: 10 | Posted Mar. 7, 2012

Share this Story:

Old City’s Sassafras Bar, 48 S. Second St., has been serving up memorable pub fare for more than three decades.

Photo by Greg Bezanis

More than a year ago, I decided to review restaurants that have been in business for more than 25 years. Anyone who has contemplated opening a restaurant knows it is hard work. I’m not sure what the life expectancy of a new establishment is, but the dinner Edward and I enjoyed at Friday, Saturday and Sunday made me realize why this institution has been in business since 1973.

Last week, my sister Sandy and I went to the Ritz to see “My Week with Marilyn.” We passed by Sassafras on the way to the theater.

“I’ve been going to Sassafras for years,” I said. “Let’s have a bite after the movie.”

We strolled around Old City, going in and out of shops, until 6 p.m., when our stomach clocks went off. I could not wait to revisit this pub, which I have never reviewed, even though I stopped by for a few appetizers about a year ago.

Sassafras just might be the city’s first gastropub; its doors opened years before the term was coined. It has been open for more than 35 years, according to its website, although Fergus, the friendly barman from Belfast, thinks it is closer to 39 years.

Not much has changed since I first came here as a graduate student many years ago. Sassafras has a long narrow space with the original tile floor, tin ceiling, hanging lights, wooden bar, which echoes the Edwardian Age, and booths in the back area. Sandy and I settled in and I looked at the menu, which has not changed since my first visit. Jazz was playing on the sound system.

I sipped a superb Rob Roy ($11) and remembered how delicious the grilled vegetarian spring rolls with ginger soy dipping sauce ($6.95) along with the steamed homemade Mongolian dumplings ($9.95) were.

Each dish Sandy and I ordered brought me back to the days of my youth at Sassafras. It was one Proustian moment after another. The bill of fare has changed little since the mid-‘70s although I doubt the restaurant offered a vegetarian burger, lamb burger or ostrich burger when Gerald Ford was president.

French onion soup ($5.95) was piping hot and prepared with rich, not-at-all salty, homemade stock. The caramelized onions — slowly and gently cooked in butter — added a natural slightly sweet flavor to the stock. A crouton floated in the center and the whole crock was topped with a thick layer of Gruyère cheese that melted as soon as it hit the broiler. This has to be the finest onion soup in town.

We shared the spinach salad ($6.95), which was thoughtfully split in the kitchen. It was a composed salad of perfectly dry baby spinach, sweet red onion bits, red ripe tomato half moons, cucumbers and hard-boiled egg wedges. I clearly recalled the homemade Maytag Blue dressing, which I always have enjoyed, and I’m pleased to write it was as fine as it was years ago. If you hanker for blue cheese dressing, which never saw the inside of a bottle, order it at Sassafras.

Around 7:30 p.m., two gentlemen arrived with their instruments in tow. Sassafras features live jazz a few evenings a week. Sandy and I took to the lilting sounds of a sax and guitar like ducklings following their mother into the pond.

The Angus burgers ($10.95) were always among the stars of the menu here. They are perfectly charcoal grilled on the outside and medium-rare on the inside. We ordered them with imported sharp cheddar cheese and Applewood smoked bacon. I marveled at the slice of a red ripe tomatoes used here at this time of year. So many places serve anemic tomatoes in winter when they should just forego it. Our juicy burgers came with a portion of not-at-all greasy french fries, which I tucked into just after I sprinkled them with malt vinegar.

Sassafras brought back so many memories. I only wish I had a Madeleine and a cup of tea to bring my dining experience full circle.

Two-and-a-half tips of the toque to Sassafras. SPR

Sassafras Bar
48 S. Second St.
215-925-2317
sassafrasbar.com

Comment on this restaurant or review at southphillyreview.com/food-and-drink/reviews.

Add to favoritesAdd to Favorites PrintPrint Send to friendSend to Friend

COMMENTS

Comments 1 - 10 of 10
Report Violation

1. Edward said... on Mar 8, 2012 at 01:45PM

“Aargh...  My head echoes the Edwardian Age.  Or was it just the vermouth.”

Report Violation

2. Marty Medals said... on Mar 8, 2012 at 02:19PM

“Let me get this straight, you paid $10.95 for a burger?

Oh I forgot that price included a slice of tomato.
Well then that must be why it cost $10.95.

Rob Roy, gotta have a Rob Roy.
AT least it was $0.50 cheaper than at La Calaca Feliza.
And not $14.00 like at Estia.
Or $13.50 at Il Pittore.
Question, have you ever had a bad Rob Roy?
Just asking.”

Report Violation

3. Phyllis Stein-Novack said... on Mar 8, 2012 at 03:18PM

“It is astonishing that this fine pub has been in business for so many years while so many go by the wayside. The food is consistantly good. I was just a student the first time I ate at Sassafras. I wonder if my readers have had a Madeleine and a cup of tea. I hope so.”

Report Violation

4. Danny Bhoy said... on Mar 9, 2012 at 07:21AM

“Really love this fine establishment, it has all the positives that a great Bar should provide. It has a good family atmosphere and a service that only that can provide. The Fayre on the varied menu is a gastronomic delight and is only matched by the fine wines and cocktails on the extensive drinks list.
The above review is further endorsed by the fine conversation and the banter by local clientele . No better place to while away few hours after a hectic work schedule.”

Report Violation

5. Turned Off said... on Mar 9, 2012 at 08:49AM

“Danny, you're a shill for management. You lost me on "fine wines" and "extensive" drinks list.

I guess that's the drawback to allowing anonymous posts.”

Report Violation

6. Anonymous said... on Mar 9, 2012 at 11:44AM

“Grad school in the 70s? So how old are you anyway??”

Report Violation

7. PhyllisPhan said... on Mar 10, 2012 at 10:25AM

“Way to connect with South Philly Review readers with your snarky Madeleine and a cup of tea comments !”

Report Violation

8. Anonymous said... on Mar 13, 2012 at 10:53AM

“I think Phyllis is too sophisticated to write for this newspaper. It's lost of most of the population.”

Report Violation

9. Anonymous said... on Mar 13, 2012 at 09:05PM

“Your English really stinks, Anonymous. A newspaper doesn't have a "population"; it has a readership.

And your meaning is unclear. Do you mean her sophistication is causing readers to go away? Or that a lower number of readers doesn't appreciate a sophisticated writer? Either way, it's illogical.”

Report Violation

10. Bebe said... on Mar 25, 2012 at 11:03AM

“What's so hard here? It's not illogical, it's an opinion, which I thought that any poster is allowed to have.”

ADD COMMENT

Rate:
(HTML and URLs prohibited)

MORE

Article:
Dining wish list

Article:
Taproom on 19th

Article:
Third of July

Article:
Cafe Ynez

Article:
Townsend

Article:
The Gaslight

Article:
Society Hill Society

Article:
Memorable meals