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Executive chef Guillermo Tellez is one talented man.
He is in charge of the open kitchen at Square 1682 in the European-inspired boutique Hotel Palomar, which opened in October. Tellez, who is no stranger to Philadelphia, worked for Stephen Starr, as well as the brilliant Charlie Trotter in Chicago.
The menu reflects his deep commitment to local, in-season organic fruits and vegetables, sustainable seafood and free-range meat. Tellez’s New American cuisine travels the globe, from Asia to Europe. Each dish I savored during a recent dinner was a triumph of flavors and textures. This is no funky fusion cuisine. He instinctively knows how ingredients work in tandem so they never fight each other.
I sipped a martini ($10) and decided to order from both the bar/grill and dinner menus. Casey the bartender aided me in my selections and he was never off-base.
Tellez’s meatballs ($8) were six bite-size rounds of seasoned beef napped in a slightly spicy, reduced, rich ragu made with San Marzano tomatoes. They were topped with finely chopped Marcona almonds from Spain that made me think Sicily was the inspiration for this appetizer. A buttery square of homemade Melba toast topped these beauties, which I ate slowly to savor each flavor.
His warm, chargrilled octopus ($9) was a tasty combination with a hint of garlic and shards of artichokes marinated in lemon juice and olive oil finished with minced fresh herbs.
This catch often can taste like a garden hose doused with too much vinegar, but Tellez hits the mark. His mollusk was juicy, tender and a fine foil for the artichokes. I nibbled on crisp flatbreads topped with black sesame seeds and focaccia I dipped into the herb-laced olive oil and lemon juice sauce.
Wines by the glass are moderately priced and reflect reds and whites that are fast gaining favor with the dining public. You can order a glass or half-glass, which is a fine idea if you enjoy white with a light dish and red with one more hearty. A flowery Torrontes ($6) drank well here.
I decided to stay in Argentina, although my next dish has roots in France. A ruby red Malbac ($8) was in order for Tellez’s roasted squab ($35), which looked and tasted exactly like the squab I enjoyed in France. It is an all-dark meat little bird that imparts a flavor similar to wild game found in England or Scotland.
But it was all France here on this marvelous plate. Tellez roasted the squab on the bone and cut it into easy-to-slice pieces. The accompanying winter cabbage was shredded and slowly braised with port.
Game birds and cabbage are a traditional dish in France. Tellez took me further into the European nation with his use of caramelized endive and an scattering of earthy chanterelles. He included a small mound of thin noodles for contrast. It was delightful to pick up the legs with my fingers and slice into the juicy, tender breast meat.
The dessert menu states, “Be Good To Yourself.” I was, indeed, when I tucked into a plate of all-American apple cider fritters ($7) dusted with cinnamon and sugar and served with homemade vanilla ice cream and apple cider caramel.
Square 1682 is bilevel, so you can dine upstairs or down in the bar/lounge area. The lighting was just right; I could actually see the creations on my plate. Although the room was filled to near-capacity, the noise level was such that I could actually hear Casey’s recommendations and the conversations I enjoyed with the people next to me.
Hotel Palomar had a soft opening, as the chain did not hire a high-powered local public relations firm to get the word out. They are taking part in Restaurant Week for lunch and dinner.
If you are wondering about the unusual name, the answer is one any fourth-grader would know. The “Square” is in honor of Rittenhouse Square, which is a block away from the restaurant, and 1682 was the year William Penn arrived on our shores.
Three extraordinary tips of the toque to Square 1682.
Square 1682
117 S. 17th St. at Samson Street
215-563-5008
www.square1682.com
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