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The Jewish deli as we know it just may become a culinary dinosaur. The oldest one in Philadelphia is Famous 4th Street in Queen Village. It opened in 1923. Russ Cowan, who was born into the deli business in Brooklyn, N.Y., purchased the place about four years ago. Then he did all of us a huge, delicious favor: He opened a branch on South 19th Street right after Rosh Hashana. Now I don’t have to schlep to Fourth and Bainbridge for authentic deli fare.
I’ve been to the new Famous on several occasions. It is a bright, cheery, long space kitted out in black-and-white tile with old black-and-white photographs of Philadelphia Jewish life dating back to the early ’20s. A friendly host in an immaculate white coat greeted us at the door.
The sandwiches, salads, breakfasts and other items on the menu are so large, you will tote much home. Most people share a sandwich because a half constitutes a meal. Every occasion, I’ve watched men react with awe at the towering corned beef or pastrami on crusty rye placed before them.
Complimentary bowls of pickles, including the half-dones I adore, along with a slightly sweet health slaw are great to munch while reading the menu. The hot corned beef ($13.75) is juicy, fatty, piled high on rye and sliced a little thick so the sandwich doesn’t fall apart. I found it difficult to get my mouth around it. Sandwiches also may be ordered "zaftig," a Yiddish word that aptly describes a woman who is, well, nicely built (think Sophia Loren).
The matzo ball soup ($6.50) is a big, steaming bowl of homemade chicken broth studded with fresh onions, celery, carrots and shreds of poultry breast. I received one huge cannonball in mine. It was tough and almost raw inside because it was so big and did not simmer long enough. On another visit, I saw a bowl go by that contained three smaller matzo balls I can only assume were light and fluffy. My soup needed salt.
The mushroom barley soup ($6.50) was rich and filling. The broth was light, yet enhanced by the pearl barley and heady mushrooms. It needed salt and pepper, as well.
Edward tried the Reuben ($14.75), which consisted of good, fatty corned beef, sauerkraut and Swiss loaded between two slices of rye and grilled. Sometimes a Reuben is open-face, but Cowan doesn’t serve it up in this manner. Edward used a knife and fork, though, as he would if it were open-face. I thought the bread could have been a bit more grilled.
The homemade chopped liver appetizer ($9) was a mound overly whipped until it was nearly a mousse, with schmaltz, sitting on lettuce accompanied by sliced onion, tomato and a scattering of salty black olives. One occasion, I found it a little sweet, but when my sister Sandy ordered it, the dish was not sweet at all.
Nova, eggs and onions ($12.75) is a brunch for two. There had to have been six eggs, softly scrambled, with added bits of saut�ed onions and chunks of Nova Scotia salmon. You get a choice of sides (even with a sandwich) so I went for potato latkes on several occasions. Four round, glistening pancakes were crispy on the outside, a little creamy on the inside and almost as good as mine. They arrived piping-hot and required a sprinkling of salt. Choice of toast? Go for the rye.
I even tried the grilled cheese with bacon ($9.75) because I thought it would comprise a light lunch. It was the biggest one I ever ate. Although the cheese was nicely melted and the bacon crisp, the griddle needed more butter so the bread would have been better grilled; I found it a little dry.
Like all good delis, the Famous stocks Dr. Brown’s sodas ($2), homemade ice tea ($2.75) and rich, brewed coffee ($2.25). You get some chocolate chip cookies with your check.
Thank you, Russ Cowan. You are keeping the spirit and the deliciousness of the Jewish deli alive. It is a rare find.
Three tips of the toque to Famous 4th Street Delicatessen.
Famous 4th Street Delicatessen
38 S. 19th St.
215-568-3271
www.famous4thstreetdelicatessen.com
